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Utopia Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Spencer Weiler on Jul 22, 2010


29° | 12°

28° | 11°

28° | 21°

31° | 12°

33° | 15°
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Another quality Logan Canyon crag with some gems and other decent climbs worthy of mentioning. North side of the road just past Rodent Ranch. Sunny in morning, shady in evening. Not often visited.

Getting There 

Park 10.9 miles up Logan Canyon,.5 miles past mile marker 472, in one of the two dirt pullouts in that area. Find the faint trail that heads up the steep embankment to the crag.

Climbing Season

Weather station 1.2 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Utopia

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Utopia:
Swedish Finger Yams   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Utopia

Featured Route For Utopia
Rock Climbing Photo: Lowering/Cleaning Swedish Finger Massage in Logan ...

Swedish Finger Yams 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Utopia
The best route at the crag for most climbers due to its length, rock quality, position, and easy grade. Follow the bolts up the increasingly steep face, enjoying the endurance as there really aren't any bomber rests for the 5.10 climber. Most cut right at the last bolt to get to the chains as it is just so appealing to climb the jugs rather than the slippery lieback flake. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Comments on Utopia Add Comment
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By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Jul 22, 2010
As far as I can tell, the 3 star 10d in the NU climbing book called, "Swedish Finger Yams" is nonexistent. Anyone with info. please comment.
By Brian Hestetune
From: Logan, UT
Feb 12, 2012
I think Swedish Finger Yams is a variation of Swedish Finger Massage. At the top, go direct instead of stepping around.
By scottso
From: St. George, Utah
Aug 9, 2012
According to Deb, Swedish Finger Yams is the correct name of the route and it's intent is to head straight up(a little left) at 10d.

SFM isn't a correct route, unless it's the break right variation. Which I don't know who would have named.

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