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Another quality Logan Canyon crag with some gems and other decent climbs worthy of mentioning. North side of the road just past Rodent Ranch. Sunny in morning, shady in evening. Not often visited.
Park 10.9 miles up Logan Canyon,.5 miles past mile marker 472, in one of the two dirt pullouts in that area. Find the faint trail that heads up the steep embankment to the crag.
5 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Utopia:
Swedish Finger Massage 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Featured Route For Utopia
Swedish Finger Massage 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Utopia
The best route at the crag for most climbers due to its length, rock quality, position, and easy grade. Follow the bolts up the increasingly steep face, enjoying the endurance as there really aren't any bomber rests for the 5.10 climber. Most cut right at the last bolt to get to the chains as it is just so appealing to climb the jugs rather than the slippery lieback flake. ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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