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Ute Valley Park

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Ute Valley Park 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.9118, -104.857 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 108,080
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: D Argyle on Jan 31, 2006
Forecast:
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April in Ute Valley.

Description 

Ute Valley Park in Colorado Springs offers some limited but quality sandstone bouldering and is great for days when you want to stay close to town and close to the ground. I wouldn't classify it as a destination area by any means, but if you are in town it can be worth checking out for a quick pump.

P.S. If you do visit, please try to keep the place clean. Be a good steward and pack it out to the trash cans.


Getting There 

From I-25 take exit 146 for Garden of the Gods Road. Drive west approximately 1.1 miles and turn right onto Centennial Boulevard. After 1.4 miles turn right onto Mule Deer Drive. Follow Mule Deer past Pinon Valley Park and turn left onto Pinon Park Drive. Pinon Park deadends at a gate, park along the street here and walk up the dirt road. After about 100m you will be at the boulders.


Climbing Season


86 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',21],['2 Stars',37],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',33],['V2-3',20],['V4-5',14],['V6-7',11],['V8-9',4],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',2],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Ute Valley Park:
Thing Behind The Wedge aka The Hangboard    V0-1 4+     Boulder, 13'   South Side Area : Main Wall
Northwest Arete   V1 5     Boulder   South Side Area : Cube Boulder
Unknown V2   V2 5+     Boulder   North Side : Centennial/Vindicator
The Wave   V2 5+     Boulder   South Side Area : The Wave Boulder
Unknown Double Dyno   V2 5+     Boulder, 20'   South Side Area : Main Wall
Heinous Gayness   V4 6B     Boulder, 10'   South Side Area : Main Boulder aka The Wedge
Thrice Commitments   V4 6B PG13     Boulder, 25'   South Side Area : Main Wall
North Face aka Wedgie and The Cube Problem   V5 6C     Boulder   South Side Area : Cube Boulder
Floater aka Center Route   V5 6C     Boulder   South Side Area : Main Boulder aka The Wedge
Rain Dance   V5-6 6C+     Boulder, 10'   South Side Area : Cube Boulder
Overhanging Arete   V6 7A     Boulder   South Side Area : Main Wall
The Alive Dyno   V6 7A     Boulder   South Side Area : Main Wall
Chick Floater   V6 7A     Boulder, 15'   South Side Area : Main Boulder aka The Wedge
Chick Power   V7 7A+     Boulder   South Side Area : Main Boulder aka The Wedge
Pungase   V7-8 7B     Boulder   South Side Area : Main Boulder aka The Wedge
Trail Route   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   South Side Area : Main Boulder aka The Wedge
Don't Tell Mom   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     TR, 1 pitch   South Side Area : Main Boulder aka The Wedge
Browse More Classics in Ute Valley Park

Featured Route For Ute Valley Park
Going for the knob.

Floater aka Center Route V5 6C  CO : Colorado Springs : ... : Main Boulder aka The Wedge
This is the obvious line up the middle of the main boulder's south face. Get to the sloper and then up to a knob to top out. Landing is good. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Ute Valley Park Slideshow Add Photo
V3 problem; directions: when walking uphill on the dirt path, take a left when you see the large boulders on the right.  Follow the boulders up the hill -- its the 3rd big boulder you will run into.  There are some V5's as well on this boulder.
BETA PHOTO: V3 problem; directions: when walking uph...
Bouldering at Ute Valley, before the Bouldering Colorado presentation.
Bouldering at Ute Valley, before the Bouldering Co...
Same boulder the V3 problem is on; this picture gives a better view of the V5s on this rock.
BETA PHOTO: Same boulder the V3 problem is on; this ...
The Floater (V5) on the right side of the path.
The Floater (V5) on the right side of the path.
Anyone have beta on this?
BETA PHOTO: Anyone have beta on this?
Man Overboard (V2).
Man Overboard (V2).
Gary at the crux of the V3 problem.
BETA PHOTO: Gary at the crux of the V3 problem.
Nice view of the boulders on the right side of the dirt path.
Nice view of the boulders on the right side of the...
One of the nice warmup or warmdown problems at The Galley.
One of the nice warmup or warmdown problems at The...
V0 crack; nice warm up route.
BETA PHOTO: V0 crack; nice warm up route.
Fun V3 roof.
Fun V3 roof.
A profile view of the Wave Boulder; it has some nice V0 to V2 problems on it
A profile view of the Wave Boulder; it h...
Unknown V3 maybe? Weird lighting.
Unknown V3 maybe? Weird lighting.
The Wave Boulder; a nice V0 sit start in the middle that goes straight up and tops out. There is a V2 variation that starts at the same spot, but the route moves to the right where you top out on the taller right side of the boulder.  There is a nice V1 traverse as well. You start at the same sit start as the others, but you top out where the V0 does but you then traverse all the way over to the left side of the boulder.
BETA PHOTO: The Wave Boulder; a nice V0 sit start in...
Tay topping out the wave.
Tay topping out the wave.
This boulder is on the right side of the path.
BETA PHOTO: This boulder is on the right side of the path.
Google Earth Map of the main areas in Ute Valley Park. <br />Elkton Boulder is just outside of the picture, to the south.
BETA PHOTO: Google Earth Map of the main areas in Ute Valley P...
A fun V1 slab without the hard start (V2 with the start).
BETA PHOTO: A fun V1 slab without the hard start (V2 with the ...
At a warm up at Ute Valley Pass May 2012
At a warm up at Ute Valley Pass May 2012
Comments on Ute Valley Park Add Comment
Show which comments
By D Argyle
From: Englewood, CO
Jan 31, 2006

Some of the info I have given is based on my own experience and from conversations with others in the area. As a result some nomenclature may be incorrect. I believe the ratings I have given are about consensus.
If anyone (i.e. Dan, Ric, Jeff, Bueller) knows better than I, or if you made the first ascent of any problem, let me know so I can edit the route info and give credit where it is due.

By Dave Jackson
Mar 6, 2006

This area is great for after work sessions. I used to boulder here a lot, Veasy-V1? They were all on the rocks downhill of the Galley boulder. There is one problem right next to the road and a tree that pulls through a bunch of pockets, does anyone know more about this problem? The feet are awkward, but the hand holds are solid, some of the best rock in Ute Valley.

-D

By Ben Snyder
From: CSprings, Sandy Hook (CT)
Apr 8, 2008

Today (4/8/08), some buddies and I cleaned up the landing zone between the Cube and Pungase boulders. The increase in space under the latter now allows for a long, cool, and difficult link-up of pungase into center route. This project is listed on the 'Main Boulder' page. The Valley has a new best problem IMO. Get to it...

By Ashley Gann
Apr 15, 2008

Fun place if you don't have a lot of time or just started bouldering outside. Everything is really easy to find and there are a bundle of easier climbs. Best thing to do is just wander around and get on whatever looks like it's in your climbing range. Worth at least one day of messing around up there. It's not as lame as everyone says.

By Evan Harvey
Sep 22, 2011

Does any one know what the traverse is rated on the main wall? and also the route on the south side of the big boulder going up the arette to the left of floater? It was a sit start with some nice heel hooks.

By NicholasM
Nov 7, 2011

Ute Valley rock quality is generally poor, but it is an awesome playground, circuit area, or place to learn bouldering. Its location, lack of access issues (so far), and fun problems makes it a popular place these days for the Colorado Springs area. Please be respectful, pick up trash if you see it (you will), and have fun!

By ricgeiman
Jan 19, 2013

I started bouldering at Ute Valley in the early eighties and used the area primarily for training. Ute is great for circuit bouldering. Before gyms I used to do a twelve problem session there a couple of times a week. Several were eliminates and traverses not included in this guide. Inconsistent rock quality but very interesting and fun terrain. It's good to see how popular the area has become.