April in Ute Valley.
Ute Valley Park in Colorado Springs offers some limited but quality sandstone bouldering and is great for days when you want to stay close to town and close to the ground. I wouldn't classify it as a destination area by any means, but if you are in town it can be worth checking out for a quick pump.
P.S. If you do visit, please try to keep the place clean. Be a good steward and pack it out to the trash cans.
From I-25 take exit 146 for Garden of the Gods Road. Drive west approximately 1.1 miles and turn right onto Centennial Boulevard. After 1.4 miles turn right onto Mule Deer Drive. Follow Mule Deer past Pinon Valley Park and turn left onto Pinon Park Drive. Pinon Park deadends at a gate, park along the street here and walk up the dirt road. After about 100m you will be at the boulders.
Weather station 7.9 miles from here
86 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',21],['2 Stars',38],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Ute Valley Park
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Ute Valley Park:
Featured Route For Ute Valley Park
Chick Power V7 7A+ CO
: Colorado Springs
: ... : Main Boulder aka The Wedge
This line is just to the right of Floater. Start in the higher pod and go right onto a bomber crimper, then match on a single-pad edge before hucking for the lip. So classic. Once the linkup from Pungase is complete, this would be a great finish!Jeff and I can't remember who got it first, since the upper crimp has broken a few times in between ascents.......[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Local Information for Ute Valley Park
Latest Regional Forum Messages
BETA PHOTO: V3 problem; directions: when walking uphill on the...
Bouldering at Ute Valley, before the Bouldering Co...
BETA PHOTO: Same boulder the V3 problem is on; this picture gi...
The Floater (V5) on the right side of the path.
BETA PHOTO: Anyone have beta on this?
BETA PHOTO: Gary at the crux of the V3 problem.
Nice view of the boulders on the right side of the...
One of the nice warmup or warmdown problems at The...
BETA PHOTO: V0 crack; nice warm up route.
A profile view of the Wave Boulder; it has some ni...
Unknown V3 maybe? Weird lighting.
BETA PHOTO: The Wave Boulder; a nice V0 sit start in the middl...
Tay topping out the wave.
BETA PHOTO: This boulder is on the right side of the path.
BETA PHOTO: Google Earth Map of the main areas in Ute Valley P...
BETA PHOTO: A fun V1 slab without the hard start (V2 with the ...
At a warm up at Ute Valley Pass May 2012
By D Argyle
From: Chipita Park, CO
Jan 31, 2006
Some of the info I have given is based on my own experience and from conversations with others in the area. As a result some nomenclature may be incorrect. I believe the ratings I have given are about consensus.
If anyone (i.e. Dan, Ric, Jeff, Bueller) knows better than I, or if you made the first ascent of any problem, let me know so I can edit the route info and give credit where it is due.
By Dave Jackson
Mar 6, 2006
This area is great for after work sessions. I used to boulder here a lot, Veasy-V1? They were all on the rocks downhill of the Galley boulder. There is one problem right next to the road and a tree that pulls through a bunch of pockets, does anyone know more about this problem? The feet are awkward, but the hand holds are solid, some of the best rock in Ute Valley.
By Ben Snyder
From: CSprings, Sandy Hook (CT)
Apr 8, 2008
Today (4/8/08), some buddies and I cleaned up the landing zone between the Cube and Pungase boulders. The increase in space under the latter now allows for a long, cool, and difficult link-up of pungase into center route. This project is listed on the 'Main Boulder' page. The Valley has a new best problem IMO. Get to it...
By Ashley Gann
Apr 15, 2008
Fun place if you don't have a lot of time or just started bouldering outside. Everything is really easy to find and there are a bundle of easier climbs. Best thing to do is just wander around and get on whatever looks like it's in your climbing range. Worth at least one day of messing around up there. It's not as lame as everyone says.
By Evan Harvey
Sep 22, 2011
Does any one know what the traverse is rated on the main wall? and also the route on the south side of the big boulder going up the arette to the left of floater? It was a sit start with some nice heel hooks.
Nov 7, 2011
Ute Valley rock quality is generally poor, but it is an awesome playground, circuit area, or place to learn bouldering. Its location, lack of access issues (so far), and fun problems makes it a popular place these days for the Colorado Springs area. Please be respectful, pick up trash if you see it (you will), and have fun!
Jan 19, 2013
I started bouldering at Ute Valley in the early eighties and used the area primarily for training. Ute is great for circuit bouldering. Before gyms I used to do a twelve problem session there a couple of times a week. Several were eliminates and traverses not included in this guide. Inconsistent rock quality but very interesting and fun terrain. It's good to see how popular the area has become.