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Ute Valley Park

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Ute Valley Park Rock Climbing 


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Location: 38.9118, -104.857 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 24,061
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide), Emily Roeben
Submitted By: D Argyle on Jan 31, 2006
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You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Reopened after flood damage! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Ute Valley Park in Colorado Springs offers some limited but quality sandstone bouldering and is great for days when you want to stay close to town and close to the ground. I wouldn't classify it as a destination area by any means, but if you are in town it can be worth checking out for a quick pump.

P.S. If you do visit, please try to keep the place clean. Be a good steward and pack it out to the trash cans.

Getting There 

From I-25 take exit 146 for Garden of the Gods Road. Drive west approximately 1.1 miles and turn right onto Centennial Boulevard. After 1.4 miles turn right onto Mule Deer Drive. Follow Mule Deer past Pinon Valley Park and turn left onto Pinon Park Drive. Pinon Park deadends at a gate, park along the street here and walk up the dirt road. After about 100m you will be at the boulders.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.9 miles from here

87 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',21],['2 Stars',41],['1 Star',14],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',33],['V2-3',21],['V4-5',14],['V6-7',11],['V8-9',4],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',2],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Ute Valley Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Ute Valley Park:
Thing Behind The Wedge aka The Hangboard    V0-1 4+     Boulder, 13'   South Side Area : Main Wall
Northwest Arete   V1 5     Boulder   South Side Area : Cube Boulder
The Rail   V1 5     Boulder   South Side Area : Main Wall
Unknown Double Dyno   V2 5+     Boulder, 20'   South Side Area : Main Wall
The Wave   V2 5+     Boulder   South Side Area : The Wave Boulder
Unknown V2   V2 5+     Boulder   North Side : Centennial/Vindicator
Acorn Dreams   V3-4 6A+     Boulder, 12'   South Side Area : Hidden Boulder
Heinous Gayness   V4 6B     Boulder, 10'   South Side Area : Main Boulder aka The Wedge
Thrice Commitments   V4 6B PG13     Boulder, 25'   South Side Area : Main Wall
North Face aka Wedgie and The Cube Problem   V5 6C     Boulder   South Side Area : Cube Boulder
Left Unknown   V5 6C     Boulder   North Side : Centennial/Vindicator
Floater aka Center Route   V5 6C     Boulder   South Side Area : Main Boulder aka The Wedge
Rain Dance   V5-6 6C+     Boulder, 10'   South Side Area : Cube Boulder
Overhanging Arete   V6 7A     Boulder   South Side Area : Main Wall
Chick Floater   V6 7A     Boulder, 15'   South Side Area : Main Boulder aka The Wedge
The Alive Dyno   V6 7A     Boulder   South Side Area : Main Wall
Chick Power   V7 7A+     Boulder   South Side Area : Main Boulder aka The Wedge
Pungase   V7-8 7B     Boulder   South Side Area : Main Boulder aka The Wedge
Trail Route   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   South Side Area : Main Boulder aka The Wedge
Don't Tell Mom   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     TR, 1 pitch   South Side Area : Main Boulder aka The Wedge
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Ute Valley Park

Featured Route For Ute Valley Park
Rock Climbing Photo: Jared LaVacque on Chick Floater.

Chick Floater V6 7A  CO : Colorado Springs : ... : Main Boulder aka The Wedge
This is a nice variation to Chick Power and Floater (Center Route). Start as for Chick Power, but instead of lunging for the top, deadpoint/lunge for the finger-lock on Floater with the left hand, and then either intermediate or lunge with the right hand for the finish of Chick Power. If there is another name for this, let me know. This problem was done by myself and others between the time that Floater and [[Chick Pow...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Ute Valley Park Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: V3 problem; directions: when walking uphill on the...
BETA PHOTO: V3 problem; directions: when walking uphill on the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bouldering at Ute Valley, before the Bouldering Co...
Bouldering at Ute Valley, before the Bouldering Co...
Rock Climbing Photo: Same boulder the V3 problem is on; this picture gi...
BETA PHOTO: Same boulder the V3 problem is on; this picture gi...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Floater (V5) on the right side of the path.
The Floater (V5) on the right side of the path.
Rock Climbing Photo: Anyone have beta on this?
BETA PHOTO: Anyone have beta on this?
Rock Climbing Photo: Man Overboard (V2).
Man Overboard (V2).
Rock Climbing Photo: Gary at the crux of the V3 problem.
BETA PHOTO: Gary at the crux of the V3 problem.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice view of the boulders on the right side of the...
Nice view of the boulders on the right side of the...
Rock Climbing Photo: One of the nice warmup or warmdown problems at The...
One of the nice warmup or warmdown problems at The...
Rock Climbing Photo: V0 crack; nice warm up route.
BETA PHOTO: V0 crack; nice warm up route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun V3 roof.
Fun V3 roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: A profile view of the Wave Boulder; it has some ni...
A profile view of the Wave Boulder; it has some ni...
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown V3 maybe? Weird lighting.
Unknown V3 maybe? Weird lighting.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Wave Boulder; a nice V0 sit start in the middl...
BETA PHOTO: The Wave Boulder; a nice V0 sit start in the middl...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tay topping out the wave.
Tay topping out the wave.
Rock Climbing Photo: This boulder is on the right side of the path.
BETA PHOTO: This boulder is on the right side of the path.
Rock Climbing Photo: Google Earth Map of the main areas in Ute Valley P...
BETA PHOTO: Google Earth Map of the main areas in Ute Valley P...
Rock Climbing Photo: A fun V1 slab without the hard start (V2 with the ...
BETA PHOTO: A fun V1 slab without the hard start (V2 with the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: At a warm up at Ute Valley Pass May 2012
At a warm up at Ute Valley Pass May 2012

Comments on Ute Valley Park Add Comment
Show which comments
By D Argyle
From: Green Mountain Falls, CO
Jan 31, 2006
Some of the info I have given is based on my own experience and from conversations with others in the area. As a result some nomenclature may be incorrect. I believe the ratings I have given are about consensus.
If anyone (i.e. Dan, Ric, Jeff, Bueller) knows better than I, or if you made the first ascent of any problem, let me know so I can edit the route info and give credit where it is due.
By Dave Jackson
Mar 6, 2006
This area is great for after work sessions. I used to boulder here a lot, Veasy-V1? They were all on the rocks downhill of the Galley boulder. There is one problem right next to the road and a tree that pulls through a bunch of pockets, does anyone know more about this problem? The feet are awkward, but the hand holds are solid, some of the best rock in Ute Valley.

-D
By Ben Snyder
From: CSprings, Sandy Hook (CT)
Apr 8, 2008
Today (4/8/08), some buddies and I cleaned up the landing zone between the Cube and Pungase boulders. The increase in space under the latter now allows for a long, cool, and difficult link-up of pungase into center route. This project is listed on the 'Main Boulder' page. The Valley has a new best problem IMO. Get to it...
By Ashley Gann
Apr 15, 2008
Fun place if you don't have a lot of time or just started bouldering outside. Everything is really easy to find and there are a bundle of easier climbs. Best thing to do is just wander around and get on whatever looks like it's in your climbing range. Worth at least one day of messing around up there. It's not as lame as everyone says.
By Evan Harvey
Sep 22, 2011
Does any one know what the traverse is rated on the main wall? and also the route on the south side of the big boulder going up the arette to the left of floater? It was a sit start with some nice heel hooks.
By NicholasM
Nov 7, 2011
Ute Valley rock quality is generally poor, but it is an awesome playground, circuit area, or place to learn bouldering. Its location, lack of access issues (so far), and fun problems makes it a popular place these days for the Colorado Springs area. Please be respectful, pick up trash if you see it (you will), and have fun!
By ricgeiman
Jan 19, 2013
I started bouldering at Ute Valley in the early eighties and used the area primarily for training. Ute is great for circuit bouldering. Before gyms I used to do a twelve problem session there a couple of times a week. Several were eliminates and traverses not included in this guide. Inconsistent rock quality but very interesting and fun terrain. It's good to see how popular the area has become.
By Dom R
From: Saranac Lake, NY
May 25, 2015
Decided to drop by this place for some quick bouldering while staying in the Springs for a short stint, and I loved it. Though there is poor rock quality in many places, what is established is super solid and safe. Every problem I did from the warm-ups to the projects were a lot of fun, cool huecos and gymnastic movements abound here. I had low expectations but came away feeling like I hit a gem as far as mid-city bouldering goes. Great place to satisfy any instant needs to climb you have.
By Dan Cooksey
From: Colorado Springs
Jan 18, 2016
I located a solo five ten climbing shoe near the Tide Boulder today (1/18/2015). If it is yours or you know who owns it, feel free to email me drcooksey@gmail.com.

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