P1: fingers in corner to ledge to OW to tree-5.9 P2: varied steep cracks- some big, crux pulls bulge past squeeze- protects well w/ BB in pod"got a bigbro in you pocket or are you just happy?"--5.10 P3: easy ground link w/ P4: steep hand crack thru pod, roof, "mustard corner"- 5.10 P5: varied, ledgy in big chimney- 5.10-pull jugs past roof on L wall then link w/ P6: Obsidian chimney to chossy- 5.9 P7: Tunnel thru- 5.8 short. P8: OW lieback to chimney past ledges to chimney up and left- 5.10 P9:"Bush pitches" -manky vegetated cracks 5.10 or head right out of chimney- a little lower than belay up ledgy easy face (some loose blocks) past "hoodoo rap" and up nice finger crack in a corner-5.10? P10 or P11 if you broke up the previous: head up and left thru sandy but fun chimney, out a roof and up the "double white russian"- flared finger and hands-5.11- from there you are on your own: about 10 more pitches- many moderate but one with a wide 5.11crux. rap the route with 2 ropes; bring lots of extra webbing as the anchors are in poor shape. also bring lots of quick-links or leaver-biners as we sacrificed hardware on all but one of the lower raps- likely the upper ones are in the same state.
Location
left of prominent right facing corner system that starts a pitch lower on the middle of wall on SW face, look for big chimney a couple pitches up and a pink streak coming down thru white rock on summit ridge.
2 #5 camalots for the ow pitch is good, we had a # 6 wc and # 6 bd and 1# 5 bd but I was only able to use the #6 cams in a couple spots while # 5 works all over. Great route. We bailed just after the ow for lack of water.
For the OW pitch, we had a little bit more pro than you Zach, three #6 BD, one #5 BD and one Blue Big Bro (at the end of the pitch, optional). We had the same water problem.
The Approach is LONG with the haul bag. Bivy at pitch 7 is GREAT!
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