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The Organ

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Organasm 

The Organ

Submitted By: Mike Morley on Jul 6, 2002
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard
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BETA PHOTO: The Organ


Description 

Organasm (III 5.8 C2) is the primary line on The Organ, although other routes exist.


Getting There 

Approach from pullout between Weeping Rock and Big Bend Shuttle stops on the west side of the road. Cross the river (sandals helpful).

Organasm is the obvious crack splitting the large roof. A switchbacking climbers' access trail will take you right to the base of the route.

Approach time: With low water, 20 minutes. High water, anyone's guess.



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By Andrew Klein
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 4, 2002

It would be nice if you can use 3 Black Diamiond .75 and 3 2 inch cams or equivalent as these sizes come in very handy for the first pitch. A few raps off the summit would be advised rather then the bushwacking dirty downclimb.

By TT
Sep 30, 2005

it has been a year (+ or -) since I was on this route, but I remember it to be one of my two most favorite routes in Zion. The second pitch is where it is at. Do the whole thing free for complete emancipation. Take normal to light rack as it is a short pitch, don't leave the belay w/o a . 75 BD to protect the crux and to keep the rope out of the crack which would push all of your cams protecting the horizontal part out of reach for the follower. A text book .75 placement can be found just right of the angle change coming out of the roof (separate crack system). Good luck, don't be intimadated by its looks, protects super well and climbs even better.

By Karsten
From: Reno, NV
Feb 11, 2006

The first two pitches can be linked with prudent use of long runners and goes free at around 5.11+. The roof is pretty much perfect jams until you pull the lip.