P2 (C3) Climb steep red wall, left of the alcove to a hanging belay.
P3 (5.9 C2+) Continue up crack (C2+) to a bolt ladder that moves up and right to some bad hooks and a mantle move (5.9) that leads to belay ledge and bolted anchor.
P4 (C3) Start with a right-facing/angling corner (C2) that ends at more bad hooks heading left to another right-facing corner. Climb the corner using blown out pin scars (A2+) and then move back right to the belay ledge and bolted anchor.
P5 (5.9 C1) Starts off with more bad hooks that lead to a left-angling crack (C1). Past the crack is a chimney (5.9) that ends before a cool roof (C1). Belay at ledge with bolted anchor.
This is a big sandy ledge and a place to bivy.
P6 (C2+) Follow right-facing corner to a fun OW. Belay at the ledge with bolted anchor.
P7 (C2+) Leave the ledge using hooks (C2+) that lead to a crack (C1+) that goes to the big ledge with bolted anchor.
- (4-5) sets of offset brassies - (3-4) sets of micro cams - (1-2) sets of nuts - (2) sets of Camalots #.5 - #3 - (1) #4 Camalot - assorted hooks (Talon, Cliffhanger, etc...)
Location
Located on a large buttress right of Moonlight Buttress, across the canyon from Spaceshot. Cross the Virgin River near Space Shot and head towards concave, pink face on the buttress.
Higher up the wall becomes a pillar with two dihedrals.
Went clean in spring 2005 to a couple of wall gomers (us), and probably a good number of times earlier than that as well. Try not to use the hammer, this is a route worthy of the challenge.
FA pitches 1,2 & bolt ladder rick d (gimpy) and MAD 3/90. Second pitch took full day plus to lead and clean the one loose block. I got 2 ball nuts and many, many pins. Every placement had compact dirt that had to be cleaned out. the 3rd was realllly hard 10' off the belay with bad body weight beaks. The bolt ladder, a mix of ONE INCH star 1/4" dryvins and other 1/4" red heads mixed in with a couple drilled pins. We tried to pendy to corner, which MAD stuck once, but lost his grip. We failed to get a 'back country permit' and were reprimanded by the rangerette... Barry and YB went up a year or two later to finish.
WTF is up with this description? 5.9 C3. C3. So why is a whole friggin rack of ironmongery listed in the protection section, eh? Not only does it go completely clean, but some rope monkeys from CA did this mutha sans-iron in 3 1/2 hours. If you wanna fuck up the rock and play with your peckers go climb the Streaked Wall.
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Aug 22, 2007
Easy there. The only reason it even remotely goes clean is from pin scars. Its pretty sketchy as a clean aid route, especially that second pitch. And folks using cam hooks will probably blow out the crack so its completely unusable. Sure, try it clean, but, don't be foolish enough to get hurt or killed on it.
Kinda makes me wonder, though. Just 'cause a classic aid route has gone free, doesn't mean folks should HAVE to free climb it. By the same token, just 'cause some super high end aid monkey (no disrespect to them fellers!) manages to do it clean, with some sketchy high end trickery, and maybe the same skills on pair with a 5.13 or so climber who can free climb Moonlight Buttress, should mean the rest of us hacks, who could do the route with one or two bomber pin placements, should stay away from the route, methinks. Probably deserves its own thread in the forum.
Followed it, not lead it. Even the pins fell right out, though. Man, that's a thin lead.
Be foolish enough to do what you damn well please.
But don't screw things up for the rest of us. Perhaps there comes a time when you realize bringing yourself up to an achievment is better than bringing it down to you. This is especially true when in the process of prematurely 'thickening' your resume you do permanent damage.
And cam hooks are a sketch idea in sandstone. But do what you want...
Yeah, camhooks are a bad idea. They flare the cracks in an unnatural way, and at a downward angle. At least with pins, as long as the rock is not too soft, or the crack isn't too thin, you can eventually use an offset nut.
Temple of Sinawava
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