Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Near Mount Carmel Tunnel
Show routes:
Select route...
Ashtar's Command Tower 
Headache, The 

Ashtar's Command Tower 

5.9

   
2 people found this page useful

FA: 
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 200 feet
Views: 1,394 page views

Submitted By: Bekky on Jan 31, 2006


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (11)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

BETA PHOTO: The most climbed of the several routes on this tow...


Description 

Ashtar is the prominent tower on the west side of the Mount Carmel Highway Tunnel, across from the ranger kiosk.

The first pitch will take everything on your rack: cams, nuts, hexes, and TCUs. It is mostly crack climbing for the first 75 ft then climbing on small ledges and crimps to first set of anchors. The second pitch is mostly bolted with some exposed, crimpy 5.9 climbing.

The second pitch traverses right and a .5 is handy for the runout between the anchors and the first bolt. There can be a lot of drag on this second pitch and communication can also be an issue. Very fun! Great view and exposure!!


Protection 

Pretty much everything will fit in this climb. Bring a selection from nuts to a #3 cam. Lots of slings to prevent drag and about 14 draws for the second pitch.


Approach 

Park on the last switchback before the tunnel and walk up the south side of the road till you get to a small trail that takes you to the base of the tower. (Approximately 5 minutes.)


Descent 

Rap off to rock right to two other sets of rap anchors. Three raps to ground.



Add Photo Photos of Ashtar's Command Tower
Bill Grasse on the 2nd pitch of Ashtar Command.

Bill Grasse on the 2nd pitch of Ashtar Command.

climbers on the first belay of ashtar command

BETA PHOTO: climbers on the first belay of ashtar command

Noah as a second follower on the 2nd pitch.  Bolted hangers can be seen on left where slings were removed by the first follower.  Photo taken 24 May 08 by the first follower standing on the small and only ledge of the pitch, about 20 feet below the anchors.

Noah as a second follower on the 2nd pitch. Bolte...


Add Comment Comments on Ashtar's Command Tower
Show which comments
By Eric Delynko
From: Springdale, UT
Sep 11, 2006

The first pitch is closer to 100' with the second at roughly 85'. It's a great route for a first trad lead since it does take just about any size gear pretty much the entire 1st pitch (the last 15-20 ft. or so takes some gear smaller than a .5 camalot). The second pitch has 13 bolts and 1 pin, but 2 of the bolts at about 1 foot apart making one of them a bit unnecessary. Fun and crimpy and exposed. Prepare for an audience.

By Gary Schmidt
Sep 30, 2006

A real great climb, short approach and fun moves. Takes great pro the whole way. There are actually two sets of chains on the official "first" pitch with the first set about 75 ft off the deck and the second at the end of the crack as is continues to thin before traversing onto the bolted pitch. This is most likely to faciltate rapping off as my 60 meter rope was about 15 feet short of being able to rap off the top set of chains. And yes, prepare to star in some tourists home movie. (Another nice feature of this climb is that it is in the shade in the afternoon!) hmm..and i guess it could be good first lead if you don't mind breaking in at 5.9?

By k. riemondy
From: Salt Lake City, Ut
Oct 23, 2006
rating: 5.9

A dozen video cameras is a good number to expect when climbing this route. Maybe more in the summer season when it gets hot. Excellent exposure on the second pitch, with nice shade most of time.

By Mark and Stacy Egan
May 4, 2008

There are 14 bolts on the second pitch. Two of the bolts are 1 foot apart which made me think that the first ascensionist thought one of those bolts was not bomber. I clipped both bolts and climbed on.
The second and third rappel stations are left of the route as you face the route (climbers left). I thought I would be able to rap the route itself but I found that a single 60 meter rope would not reach the anchors at the top of pitch 1 from the top of pitch 2. It was approximately 15 feet short of the chains. The second pitch is more like 110-120 feet of vertical distance. Note that the three rappel stations use webbing instead of chains. Also, a 60 meter rope just makes it to the ground from the third rappel station. A 50 meter rope will be too short.
Both pitches are fun! And yes, you will entertain the crowds waiting to get through the Mt. Carmel Tunnel.

By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT
May 4, 2008

Mark, the two bolts 1 ft apart are supposed to be an intermediate anchor. Both bolts are bomber. Most parties just skip them, but on a windy or loud day it is help full, for communication

By Mark and Stacy Egan
May 8, 2008

Gaar, thanks for the clarification!
--Mark

By George Vigeon
From: Park City, UT
Jun 6, 2008
rating: 5.8+

Super fun sandstone climbing and the crack takes everything. The traverse to the first both is exciting for both and the crowd that congregates because of traffic issues in the tunnel are always entertaining. You can hear everything they say, but they can't hear you. My favorite comment was, "Why in the world are those two up there?" Communication issues are resolved buy yelling at the wall behind you at the top, acoustics send the sound to the belayer rather than out into the grater canyon.