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Mt. Moroni
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Crack in the Cosmic Egg 
Plan B 
Unknown 
Voice from the Dust 

Plan B 

5.12b

   

FA: FA - Joe French, Eric Draper, Bryan Bird (11/98), FFA - Jeff Hollenbaugh, Cameron Tague
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.12b [details]
Length: 8 pitches, Grade IV
Season: Spring and Fall
Views: 704 page views

Submitted By: eric dixon on Apr 20, 2007


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BETA PHOTO: Plan B follows the obvious corner through the two ...


Description 

Plan B ascends a right-facing corner system through three distinct roofs. The rock is generally good quality and the climbing is quite enjoyable. A challenging route with some incredible positions. The route now goes free, but was originally done at 5.11 C2.

P1 (5.6) Climb the detached pillar/flake via squeeze chimney. Belay off gear.

P2 (5.11a) Climb the splitter finger and tight-hand crack in the face right of the corner to a tree.

P3 (5.11) Continue up the crack through a wide slot to a small stance. Belay off gear.

P4 (5.9-5.10) Make a crack switch and continue up past a pillar via double cracks to bolted belay.

P5 (5.12b) Follow low-angle corner up to below the first large horizontal roof. Climb the tight-hand crack through the roof to a bolted belay above.

P6 (5.12a) Continue up the corner to below a second smaller roof. Climb out this roof to a bolted belay above.

P7 (5.10) Climb the crack in the corner to a third small roof. Move right under the roof and follow the wild hand crack to belay.

P8 (5.9) Continue up the hand crack to the top and belay off 3-3.5" gear.


Protection 


  • (1) set of stoppers
  • (1) set of TCUs
  • (2) sets of Camalots #.5 - #4
  • Extra #1's
  • (1) #5 Camalot


Location 

Located on the East face of Mt. Moroni. Approach starts at the Zion Lodge. Cross the river on the Emerald Pools Trail then turn left and follow the sandy horse trail. After about 10 minutes, start looking for a faint climber's path to the right. This will go through a break in the cliff band and to the base of the wall. Plan B will be to the left once the wall is reached.


Descent 

From the top, downclimb 30 feet to the bolted anchor. From these bolts, rap the route.



Photos of Plan B Slideshow Add Photo
The two large roofs on Plan B.

BETA PHOTO: The two large roofs on Plan B.

The start of Plan B.

BETA PHOTO: The start of Plan B.

A view of Plan B from the road.

BETA PHOTO: A view of Plan B from the road.

Climbing the great thin-hands of the second pitch of Plan B.

Climbing the great thin-hands of the second pitch ...

Climbing the third pitch of Plan B.

Climbing the third pitch of Plan B.

old topos

BETA PHOTO: old topos