Crack in the Cosmic Egg (aka Smoot/Ellison Route) 

FA:  Brian Smoot, Les Ellison (4/84) Type:  Trad, Aid Consensus:  5.10 A2+ [details] Length:  10 pitches, Grade V Season:  Spring and Fall Views: 432 page views Submitted By: eric dixon on Apr 8, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Route follows crack system in the center of this s...

Description 

P1 (A2/C3+ or 5.11X) Climb right-facing corner to a ledge with bolted anchor.

P2 (C2) Follow the 1/4 to 1/2 inch crack to a bolted belay anchor.

P3 (C2) Continue up the 1/4 to 1/2 inch crack to belay ledge and bolted anchor.

P4 (C1) Move back into the crack, which is now 1/2 - 3/4 inch, and climb to bolted anchor.

P5 (A2+/C3) Move up from the anchor, then do a short pendulum to the right to gain a right-facing corner. Climb this to a belay/bivy ledge.

P6 (C1 or 5.11a) Climb the 1.5 to 1 inch crack that ends in an offwidth/chimney.

P7 (5.9) Handcrack to chimney.

P8 (C1) Called "The Wormhole". Climb the wide chimney. #2 Camalot for belay.

P9 (5.9) Climb the handcrack in left-facing corner.

P10 (5.8, A2) Continue up crack (5.8) then right (A2) to top anchor.

Protection 

• Two KB's

• Two LA's

• One each 1/2" & 5/8" angle

• One each 1 1/4" & 1 1/2"

• Three each #00-#0 TCU's

• Six #1 TCU's

• Four #2 TCU's

• Three #3 TCU's

• Five #.75 Camalots

• Four each #1 & #2 Camalots

• Three #3 Camalots

• One #4 Camalot

• One #4.5 Camalot

• One set stoppers

• One set offsets

• hooks

Location 

Located on the East face of Mt. Moroni in the center of the tallest, most prominent buttress. Approach starts at the Zion Lodge. Cross the river on the Emerald Pools Trail then turn left and follow the sandy horse trail. After about 10-15 minutes, start looking for a faint path to the right. This will go through a break in the cliff band and to the base of the wall.

Descent 

Rap route or descend the back side of Mt. Moroni via a 75' rappel. Downclimb to a canyon, hike up canyon (north) to a pass, descend to Lady Mtn. Trail

Add Photo Photos of Crack in the Cosmic Egg (aka Smoot/Ellison Route)

Following the pitch 2 splitter	Following the short offwidth section on pitch 6	Kim Miller leading pitch 9