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Huecos Rancheros 

5.12c

   

FA: 
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 150 feet
Views: 1,591 page views

Submitted By: Josh Janes on Oct 21, 2003


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Just another sandy slab climb.


Description 

There are currently four lines on the obvious, overhanging, tiger-striped wall that contains "Namaste." From left to right these are:

1/2 Route, AKA Unknown: 5.10d and much shorter.

Huecos Rancheros: 5.12c and the longest, most amazing looking line.

Namaste: 5.12a and the steepest line.

Unknown Project: Only a few bolts on this one thus far.

Huecos Rancheros is an amazing line. Follow 11 bolts up very steep, ultra positive holds to a large hueco. Rest here and then reach up and clip; the crux is getting past bolts #12 and #13 where the huecos shrink dramatically in size, things get sequential, and the wall continues to overhang like crazy!

Two ropes to descend, a single 70m won't do it. The rap puts you an astonishing 50' away from the start of the climb.


Protection 

15 bolts to an anchor.


Location 

Huecos Rancheros is the bolted line second-from-the-left.



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the upper part of namaste

the upper part of namaste


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By Kenneth Duncan
Oct 11, 2004

These are incredible sport routes a must do for anyone in the area. The ratings on both are probably high. (Nameste is probably 11c/d and Huecos 11d)

By Josh Janes
Administrator
Nov 17, 2004

While Namaste is probably not really 12a, it is a major sandbag to call Huecos 11d. The crux is a sequential series of crimps that comes after 13 clips. Solid 5.12.

By TP in SLC
From: Cottonwood Heights, UT
Jun 28, 2006

I always heard if these routes were to hit print of any kind Conrad would be back to chop them... They have always been rated 12a for Namaste, and 12c for Heucos. sandbaggers.

By Eric Whitbeck
Feb 19, 2007

Did Conrad put up the routes? If so, and he decided to take them down, wouldn't somone else put them back uy?

By Danno
From: Lyons, CO
Mar 15, 2007

Why would someone bolt a route and then threaten to chop them once they became popular? Seems like ya shouldn't have bolted 'em in the first place then, eh?

By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT
May 25, 2007
rating: 5.12a/b

This is one of the most amazing lines I have ever seen or done.....But really, if this was anywhere on the east coast it would be 12a/b no more!! You can get 2 no hands rest through the whole thing...Anyway get on it the crux is the 2nd to last bolt, and is maybe a v2/3 boulder problem.

By kip henrie
From: centerville, utah
Nov 19, 2007
rating: 5.12b

if you want beta here you go. climb up using big holds all overhanging. this is a high endurance route. be creative with your rests, use knee bars and cram yourself into some bigger huecos. go calm and collected because its a long exhilerating haul. once you hit the third to the last bolt you get to do a v4 boulder move while pumped and about 130 feet in space. left hand sidepull bring feet up and go to a bad 3 finger crease. step up the feet fighting a barn door then move to a high crimper (do not clip here) then gun for the next hold then clip. after that its more great climbing to the anchors. i fell 4-5 times here before i could get it. please replace the top biners with new quicklinks. i wish i had a picture at the top looking down it was quite a view. use 2 ropes to descend. cleaning is laborious.

By desbien
From: denver,co
Dec 9, 2007

Is this area bigger then documented here? Would zion be worth the haul for a sport climber?

By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Dec 10, 2007

desbien: Is this area bigger then documented here? Would zion be worth the haul for a sport climber?

No, the area includes three sport climbs and a few (I'm not sure exactly how many) bolted slab climbs. It is a super cool area so if you're in the area it may be worth it. Keep in mind that it is cold and snowy where these climbs are so usually they're not climbable until June or July. I hiked into this area in late March once to find 20 to 30 feet of snow. I was looking almost eye level at some of the anchors.