Huecos Rancheros 

These are incredible sport routes a must do for anyone in the area. The ratings on both are probably high. (Nameste is probably 11c/d and Huecos 11d)

While Namaste is probably not really 12a, it is a major sandbag to call Huecos 11d. The crux is a sequential series of crimps that comes after 13 clips. Solid 5.12.

I always heard if these routes were to hit print of any kind Conrad would be back to chop them... They have always been rated 12a for Namaste, and 12c for Heucos. sandbaggers.

Why would someone bolt a route and then threaten to chop them once they became popular? Seems like ya shouldn't have bolted 'em in the first place then, eh?

This is one of the most amazing lines I have ever seen or done.....But really, if this was anywhere on the east coast it would be 12a/b no more!! You can get 2 no hands rest through the whole thing...Anyway get on it the crux is the 2nd to last bolt, and is maybe a v2/3 boulder problem.

if you want beta here you go. climb up using big holds all overhanging. this is a high endurance route. be creative with your rests, use knee bars and cram yourself into some bigger huecos. go calm and collected because its a long exhilerating haul. once you hit the third to the last bolt you get to do a v4 boulder move while pumped and about 130 feet in space. left hand sidepull bring feet up and go to a bad 3 finger crease. step up the feet fighting a barn door then move to a high crimper (do not clip here) then gun for the next hold then clip. after that its more great climbing to the anchors. i fell 4-5 times here before i could get it. please replace the top biners with new quicklinks. i wish i had a picture at the top looking down it was quite a view. use 2 ropes to descend. cleaning is laborious.

Is this area bigger then documented here? Would zion be worth the haul for a sport climber?

desbien: Is this area bigger then documented here? Would zion be worth the haul for a sport climber?

No, the area includes three sport climbs and a few (I'm not sure exactly how many) bolted slab climbs. It is a super cool area so if you're in the area it may be worth it. Keep in mind that it is cold and snowy where these climbs are so usually they're not climbable until June or July. I hiked into this area in late March once to find 20 to 30 feet of snow. I was looking almost eye level at some of the anchors.

There is now a bolted route 5 feet to the right of Huecos Rancheros.

Anyone have any beta?

The new route right of Huecos was put up by St. George local hard man Chad Perkins. I don't know much else, but it looks hard. It is just as long as Huecos, but climbs through several sections of smaller holds. I haven't been on it myself.

I got on the new route about 2 weeks ago....I found it to be about 11+/12-....It is a little heady lead, as you doing solid climbing, well above bolts is super soft sandstone, and gound fall for the first 4 bolts is possible. Alot of the holds were still very fragil due to lack of traffic, but near the top the route almost splits. You can go way left into super sandy easy heucos, or go right through near imposibble crimps (5.13) I did both ways neither is quite fun.

Personally this line is no where near as good as the 3 main climbs, but is a nice diversion. The climb should finish 2 bolts from the anchor. As is you need 14ish draws and 2 ropes to get down.