That rock looks incredibly cool! What a beautiful picture! I found a wall just like that in the backcountry of Zion once, severely huecoed and severely overhanging. It was that same deep red color, too. I've always wanted to go back and develop the wall. Good pic, I'm inspired!
Bring bug spray, lots and lots of bug spray. Maybe a mesh tent with a little rip to belay the rope through. The routes are sooooooo worth it though. in the shade too.
By jtwalter From: Orem, UT Nov 4, 2007 rating: 5.10b
Full on killer route! Seemed like about a .10b. Very steep but HUGE hand holds. I got a flapper in the palm of my hand from this route. The large hueco to the left of the 5th bolt is big enough for me to stand up in. Great rest.
7 bolts with rappel bolts for the anchors. The second bolt is located in one of the huecos so a longer draw would be a good idea to keep your biner off the edge.
By kip henrie From: centerville, utah Nov 19, 2007 rating: 5.10c
this route is visibly impressive, the color hurt my eyes. the features were a playground of big moves and hugely fun climbing. it requires high endurance and some creative thinking to discover rests. i felt like i was transported to mars on this route.
By Perin Blanchard Administrator From: Orem, UT Nov 19, 2007
The holds are so big that if this thing were vertical it'd be 5.6 (at least going by my local gym — I've never met a vertical 5.6 in the wild).
As it is, about 10-15 degrees overhanging, couple of kneebar rests, and I was still gasping at the end.
By Perin Blanchard Administrator From: Orem, UT Nov 22, 2007
Video of the Half Routehere and here. The first one also has a little footage of Huecos Rancheros.
please bring two quicklinks and two rap rings to fix on these anchors, it sounds like people have stolen the carabiners off the Metolius Rap Hangers.
This route is so steep it would be nasty to try to clean it on rappel
thanks!
Great route!
By Todd Gardner From: Salt Lake City, UT May 30, 2009 rating: 5.10d
Amazing sandstone huecoes. Positive holds and pumpy. There is a couple spots with tricky feet and burly lybacks. Great climb 10d sustained with a kneebar rest about bolt 3 or 4.