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1/2 Route, AKA Unknown 
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1/2 Route, AKA Unknown 

5.10+

   

FA: Conrad Anker?
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 2,748 page views

Submitted By: George Bell on Apr 28, 2001


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Bill leading the cool huecoed route.


Description 

This is the "warm-up" route left of Huecos Rancheros and Namaste. It is shorter and only requires one rope.

Crank up overhanging huecos to the anchor.

All routes on this wall were established ground up placing bolts hanging off hooks!


Protection 

7 bolts, 3 bolt anchor with carabiners.


Location 

This is the first bolted route from the left. It starts on a series of ladder rung-like horizontal features.



Photos of 1/2 Route, AKA Unknown Slideshow Add Photo
Not a slab climb!

Not a slab climb!

Ben getting pumped and John getting bitten by black flies.

Ben getting pumped and John getting bitten by blac...

The door to this 10+. Perin Blanchard starts his journey with Walt belaying.

The door to this 10+. Perin Blanchard starts his j...

on-sight go..

on-sight go..

lots of rests, arm-bars, knee bars, and the occasional for rent sign.

lots of rests, arm-bars, knee bars, and the occasi...

beautiful color contrasting ecosystem

beautiful color contrasting ecosystem

Just one of a few great rests

Just one of a few great rests


Comments on 1/2 Route, AKA Unknown Add Comment
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By Dan Russell
Mar 12, 2003

That rock looks incredibly cool! What a beautiful picture! I found a wall just like that in the backcountry of Zion once, severely huecoed and severely overhanging. It was that same deep red color, too. I've always wanted to go back and develop the wall. Good pic, I'm inspired!

By Magic Fingers
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 2, 2003

Bring bug spray, lots and lots of bug spray. Maybe a mesh tent with a little rip to belay the rope through. The routes are sooooooo worth it though. in the shade too.

By jtwalter
From: Orem, UT
Nov 4, 2007
rating: 5.10b

Full on killer route! Seemed like about a .10b. Very steep but HUGE hand holds. I got a flapper in the palm of my hand from this route. The large hueco to the left of the 5th bolt is big enough for me to stand up in. Great rest.

7 bolts with rappel bolts for the anchors. The second bolt is located in one of the huecos so a longer draw would be a good idea to keep your biner off the edge.

By kip henrie
From: centerville, utah
Nov 19, 2007
rating: 5.10c

this route is visibly impressive, the color hurt my eyes. the features were a playground of big moves and hugely fun climbing. it requires high endurance and some creative thinking to discover rests. i felt like i was transported to mars on this route.

By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Nov 19, 2007

The holds are so big that if this thing were vertical it'd be 5.6 (at least going by my local gym — I've never met a vertical 5.6 in the wild).

As it is, about 10-15 degrees overhanging, couple of kneebar rests, and I was still gasping at the end.

By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Nov 22, 2007

Video of the Half Route here and here. The first one also has a little footage of Huecos Rancheros.

By grayhghost
Dec 10, 2008

please bring two quicklinks and two rap rings to fix on these anchors, it sounds like people have stolen the carabiners off the Metolius Rap Hangers.

This route is so steep it would be nasty to try to clean it on rappel

thanks!

Great route!

By Todd Gardner
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 30, 2009
rating: 5.10d

Amazing sandstone huecoes. Positive holds and pumpy. There is a couple spots with tricky feet and burly lybacks. Great climb 10d sustained with a kneebar rest about bolt 3 or 4.

By susan peplow
From: Phx J-Tree
Jun 26, 2009

Fantastic and worth the 45 minute nature hike!!