Park in the lot at the hairpin turn. Hike up the trail (South Fork Canyon) for about 45 minutes. Then canyon will narrow the farther you go. Just before scrambling is required, on your left will be an overhanging wall with three sport routes. The short one on the left is a good warm up at 5.10+. Then Huecos Rancheros (5.12c) is the center and on the right is Namaste (5.12a). These are all beautiful lines.
If you've seen images of this climb, you need to hike in and climb it. It is one of the coolest desert sport routes I've done. Most of the holds are big and none of the moves are hard, but by the end, you're getting pumped. I think there might be a kneebar somewhere around mid-height to shake out.
Getting down from Huecos Rancheros and Namaste is a little tricky if you are leading and cleaning since you need two ropes and the routes are very steep.
This route does look very cool although I've only done the route on the left (does this route have a name, anyone know?). One interesting fact is that you can't establish routes on this wall from above, it's smooth and overhanging. All these routes have been established by hanging off hooks to put the bolts in.
By Teleman From: Steamboat Springs, CO Apr 18, 2004 rating: 5.11c
I onsighted this climb 11/03, and even though I think it is a spectacular sport route, and would like to accept the 12a rating, I just did't think it matached up with other 12's in the area (Zion or St. George). If you have good endurance and can hold on to 10b holds for 150 feet it is all yours.
P.S. the first bolted route to the left (10a/b)is a great warm up for either Hueco's or Namaste.
By Bill Bones From: Somwheres in ooohtaaa May 20, 2007
You can climb this route with one 70M rope.
By Gaar From: Springdale / Zion UT May 25, 2007 rating: 5.11c/d
Again as "HR" this would be a 11+ (c/d) and NO MORE, if it were anywhere on the east. Still one of the best sport climbs in the country!!!!!! ....Get on it, there is a sit down no hands rest about 9-10 bolts in, after the ladder section..
Also you can TR it with a 70m rope with about 2-3 feet on either end
By kip henrie From: centerville, utah Nov 19, 2007
make sure you get on the right route. namaste is the third from the left not the center one.
it goes from left to right. 10+, 12c, 12a, and a project. these climbs are other worldly, i feel very lucky to be in their presence.
Gaar, you're nuts. As most the moves are straight forward there are several reachy ones that take strength, reach and technique to pull off without hangin'. Pump factor is a legal element to bump the rating to .12. Furthermore, I highly doubt the .10+ leader could do this route clean. (myself included)
This route like it's easier neighbor 1/2 route is fantastic and worth doing over and over again.
Shady, quiet and perfect temps late June '09 (and not a single mosquito)
RSS Feed
Slideshow
