Lovelace 

FA:  Dave Jones & Gary Gray in 1983 FFA: Topher Donahue & Kennan Harvey in 1995 Type:  Trad, Aid Consensus:  5.10 C2- [details] Length:  9 pitches, 900 feet, Grade V Views: 713 page views Submitted By: bsmoot on Mar 12, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

This grade IV or V route features great rock in a spectacular setting. Climbs an ever widening crack to the top. The view looking down on the fang is fantastic.

P1 - Ascend a short approach pitch to a left facing corner.(5.6)
P2 - Ascend corner 5.10 to a narrow ledge.
P3 - Move belay right and up along a "thank God" type ledge.
P4 - Ascend thin splitters for 160' to a ledge (C2 or 5.12).
P5 - Jam a perfect hand crack (5.9) to a stance below a shallow chimney.
P6 - Climb the chimney for 40'. Traverse left to an improbable flake. Ascend this to a cool ledge (5.9) Amazing pitch.
P7 - Climb the 5.10 offwidth above to a belay below a deep chimney.
P8 - The slick bombay chimney above (5.9) ends at a hanging belay inside the chimney...Wow!
P9 - Climb the heads up squeeze chimney & offwidth to the top (5.9+)

Rap route...50m ropes will work.

Location 

This classic, striking crack system is located just left of, and behind the fang spire.

Protection 

3 sets TCU's, 3-4 sets cams up to a #5 camalot. Many small to medium nuts. Bring some big cams too.