Drive back and forth between Mosquito Cove and Zion enough and you can't help but wonder about that toothy ridge above Rockville.
The most exotic-looking tooth, far left on the skyline from the road, has a short and sweet route on the backside path of least resistance. A perfect way to try out Zion sandstone without shuttles, tourists, and big wall logistics. We got beta from a drawn topo at the backcountry ranger desk in Zion and from m.project.
The rock formation you climb seems to be called either Aunt Jemima or Mrs. Butterworth's. The route name is one of those, or possibly Tooele's Tower as noted in the Zion ranger beta file.
It takes an hour and a half to get to the base. In mid May it was in the shade until 11, full sun a couple hours later. It's a little sandy and clearly doesn't get traveled all that often, but the rap stations are well established (bolts and trees).
The ranger beta called it 9+, but we thought the moves off the second belay were a little stiffer. However, you have the belay bolts at your chest so you could aid it if it felt dicey.
Fun route. Great summit with great views; a gentle adventure climb. Please try to minimize desert impact by staying as best you can on what faint trails there are to the base of the route.
Location
Turn onto 200 E street in Rockville. Cross the bridge. Very soon the road turns right. Just before this turn, take a paved road (left turn, or sort of continue straight) which turns into a dirt road in a couple hundred yards.
The road gets worse over the next ten minutes, winding up past a cattle grate, private road, etc., until you get to a good-looking dirt pullout on the right.
It is doable at a snail's pace in a low clearance car, but take the truck if you have it.
Park at the dirt pullout. Sorry, no mileages, we didn't have an odometer, but we both thought it was the only pullout that we saw, and no turnoffs before we got there looked tempting at all.
There is an obvious, excellent dirt singletrack heading straight towards Eagle Crag from the pullout. Take this. The trail stays excellent as you walk towards the crag, then switchback up to the ridge left of the crag. The trail continues on the backside of the ridge.
Keep an eye on the Aunt Jemima/Mrs. Butterworth's formation because it looks very different from the backside.
There doesn't seem to be a climbers' trail to the actual route. The best way we found was a drainage below the backside. Take this up steep, loose, desert sand and rock and bush to the notch behind the crag, and then check out the topo.
TDA just because some misinformed Zion "locals" were pulling a ooo. It doesn't mean you shouldn't get credit for such a great route on a wonderful backcountry tower. What # ascent did the whole crew make? (there was 7 of us!...party!) Was it the 2nd or 3rd?
TDA and TS humped a full iron load out to that thing. The "locals" were telling us that it had been done before by Brad Quinn at 5.10 A3 in the late 80's. Well that kind of climbing really appealed to TDA back then, so he humped a full wall kit out there to "repeat" the "existing" line. They found no start, no anchor(s), nothing. I heard they walked around the tower about 7 times looking for the "start". Nothing. They then spied the awesome route that is the only route I am aware of. They drilled very minimally, "in-case" it had been climbed before. After 3 pitches and NO signs of pins, webbing, bolts, 2x4's, they stood on the summit. TDA scoured the summit looking for any sign of passage, bolts, pins, rope burns, nothing. I guess the "1st" ascent team BASE jumped off of the thing leaving no pin scars, or any sign. I have climbed the thing, I looked everywhere I possibly could for ANY signs of ANY passage, nothing. It's my guess that the "locals" in the 90's were just wrong. Kudos TDA, what a jewel.
PS. Brad Quinn did not tell us any of this : this was all hear-say from the Springdale "locals".
PPS. If you hike out there think about the 1st ascent team humping a full iron kit and haul bags... no thanks!
And if I am wrong and somebody has some info and evidence to back it up, I would love to hear the tale.
By John J. Glime From: Salt Lake City, UT Jul 18, 2007
The description here about how to get to the tower sucks. There are roads and driveways all over the f-ing place out there. And no matter where you get to the tower is still a long ways off. I wasn't in the mood for a death march bushwack, so if anyone can give more detailed info via GPS or other, I eventually want to go climb that beautiful piece of stone. Cheers.
John- you're right. the approach beta could be better. BUT- both my partner and I think that the beta as-is should get any self-respecting climber to the base of the thing with no death-march aftertaste. there really are no tempting roads or trails or pullouts. follow the beta here and the logical line and then get off the trail below the tower backside. thats it. and bring your GPS, draw a map, and let the rest of us reap the benefits..
By John J. Glime From: Salt Lake City, UT Aug 13, 2007
Ha, that is my problem. I am not a self respecting climber. I am lazy too. For recollections sake, when you cross the bridge do you drive up that dirt road that has the big drop on the left? For what it is worth, I didn't have your directions when I tried to get there, I drove in there last year. I think Troy said something about asking people in town, and perhaps I had his directions for Eagle Crag... I'll print this page out the next time I head down there. Cheers.
Eagle Crag had an excellent trail that wrapped around the backside (as mentioned in the beta) that im guessing is a well-worn hiker's trail. so yes, im guessing townfolk would know. or the gear shop folks (btw- go to the guide shop.. the gear shop employees nearer the zion park entrance are useless for beta, as far as i can tell).
i cant remember if there is a big drop on the left on the road. cross the bridge, and drive straight like you're heading for the hills. just before the road winds right, there is a turnoff. its almost like driving straight instead of following the road right. then you're on your way. keep an eye out after you've gained some elevation for a pullout that looks like it could park a couple cars. look for the good singletrack trail.
My partner and I found our way there with no problems (unusual for us) with only the Park Service binder topo and a quick look at TopoZone. The above info should be plenty. Also, we found a single set of cams to be sufficient.
Eagle Crag
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