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Carbuncle Buttress
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Made to be Broken 

Made to be Broken 

5.10+ PG13

   

FA: Joe French, 2003
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10+ [details]
Length: 5 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III
Season: All (if you can handle the heat
Views: 674 page views

Submitted By: Gaar on May 26, 2007


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BETA PHOTO: Made to be Broken starts in the center of the Carb...


Description 

Look directly at the lodge....Look up....See the buttress with the diving board on the top?!...Take one of the many trails up to the base of the butress(15min uphill) and climb the middle of the face. Follow the bolts


Protection 

10-12 draws and one 70m rope....A 60m rope will work but is cutting it CLOSE



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The first pitch of Made to be Broken.

The first pitch of Made to be Broken.

The first pitch of Made to be Broken.

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The second pitch of Made to be Broken.

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The third pitch of Made to be Broken.


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By grayhghost
Dec 8, 2008

PleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePlease

Bring 10 steel rap-rings and a wrench for the belays. As of 12/05/08 the belays were bolts with single quicklinks, causing serious rope twisting when pulling the ropes on the rappels. This could be bad if your only rope gets stuck simply because it spun around itself a million times.

You could use 4 slings to cut down on rope drag.

This route is pretty spooky, I would recommend being a solid 5.11 sport leader before hopping on this.

Cool summit.