P1/P2 (C1, 160') The first bolt is about nine feet off the ground (have your buddy give you a boost to clip it). The first two pitches can be combined.
P3 (~70') Gain a comfortable ledge.
P4 (C2) Attack the Wrinkles which calls for a series of pendulums (reach right) and tension traverses to the left. When good placements run out move left.
P5 (C1) Climbs through the arch roof via a nice crack.
P6 (C1) Takes a crack to a short bolt ladder.
P7 (C2) Takes a left-facing corner up a few trickier moves to a decent stance for the last aid pitch.
P8 Continues up the corner system and then makes a clever pendulum out left to gain access to another corner. (Fixed point) This pitch ends on a big, dirty, sandy, down sloping ledge (be extremely careful of the loose stuff here).
P9 (5.5) Free climbs a low-angle chimney filled with loose debris to a ridiculously crappy chute filled with loose sand, rock, and plant material. After suffering through this mess, you arrive at a good trees to belay from.
A few recommendations:
1. Bring a belay seat as the stances are not always very comfortable.
2. Do not haul if you can help it. If you think you'll take more than one day, fix the first two or three pitches.
Protection
This route is all clean. No hammer is necessary. Bring a full clean aid rack including: cams up to 3" and many smaller sizes (especially small aliens and TCU's), 2 sets of nuts down to RP sizes are essential (offsets are really helpful), a few rivet hangers are nice, and whatever you do DO NOT FORGET A HOOK. There are some moves that can only be done with a hook. Also, have about 25 to 35 spare biners as some of the pitches can be long.
Approach
Approach the route from the climbers' trail that ascends to the base of the northeast face of Angel's Landing. Near the top of the wall, there is a large, A-shaped, in-cut section of desert varnish. The route begins right off of the trail under a prominent roof.
Some guide books call this route grade IV or IV+. Though it can be done in one long day, it is far more technical than many grade V's in Yosemite. For example, the South Face of Washington's Column has only 3 pitches of C1 aid (the rest is free with a total of 10 pitches). Also, other Zion routes like Touchstone Wall have substantially less aid at the grade IV level (only 3 pitches in this case). I think that Prodigal Sun deserves its original rating of grade V.
Be aware that climbing this route involves crossing the Virgin River. No problem in the fall, but this can be an interesting proposition at dawn in the spring (no problem this year, however). Scope this out the day before, if it really looks bad you can cross on the Angel's Landing trail bridge, and then bushwhack upstream to the route. This is quite brushy.
Some years this route is reputedly closed in the spring due to Peregrene Falcon nesting, but this hasn't been true the last few years.
A Standard Black Diamond (Chouinard) Hook is needed for the 6 and 7th pitches even if you topstep in your aiders you'll need the hook. The 7th pitch hook is solid but somewhat reachy. Offset alliens (I have one) are very useful in some of the old pin scars. Enjoy!
Just did this climb about a week ago. First of all, regarding the hook controversy: I only used a hook once on the third to last placement of the 8th pitch--and that was only because I was too chicken to commit to a #5 swedge that I could only get halfway in the crack. I don't know why you would need a hook anywhere else unless you're short. I'm 5'9" and was able to reach all of the fixed gear from my top step (although I was probably on my tip-toes a couple of times). How tall is Ron Olevsky? Some of those bolts are definitely stretch.
Second, I'd have to agree with the Grade V rating. Unless of course you really like climbing in the dark or in the hot summer when the days are longer.
Third, while it is possible to survive a night at the third belay without a portaledge, I wouldn't recommend it. I had heard that ledge described as "3 foot by 10 foot", but it isn't really that big and it isn't really that flat.
Fourth, don't disregard the info about the ledge above pitch 8. There is an incredible amount of sand and loose rock (some very large) just waiting to fall on your head if you look at it wrong. Worse yet, you have to climb almost directly through this loose stuff with probably the worst rope drag you can imagine. Be very careful! Fortunately your belayer shouldn't be in path of any rocks you might dislodge, but be mindfull of any other climbers that might be below you.
Ron Olevsky is very short! If you ever meet him ask him to show you how to top step! He has a very good technique for it! Also you do not need a hook! I don't know what people are thinking telling you to bring one!
DId the route last week. Many shiny new bolts placed by the ASCA on the bolt ladders. DId one hook move off the third belay. Lots of loose shit on top. Also alot of garbage...if you have garbage, PACK IT OUT! Like the other Zion trade routes, I found the red TCU an indispensible piece of gear...probably placed it on evey pitch! Off set aliens and nuts make life much easier also. DOable in a day...
Lot's of hook talk. Finished the route 3 days ago. I own no offset Aliens or tri-cams and relied on dubious nut placements in flared pin scars and a few hook moves to reach a decent placements. Pitches 3, 7, and 8, especially 8, were quite exciting. I'd vote for taking the hook.
I just got off this route a few days ago and must say that I found it to be very enjoyable. I brought a sky hook and found it useful but not mandatory. Offset stoppers work unbelievably well on this route. Seriously, bring every one you can find and I promise you that you will be happy you did. I would agree that this route is indeed a grade V. Also, I freed a lot of the sections of this route in Garmonts. None of the spots I freed were harder than 5.9. Don't hesitate to get out of the aiders every now and then. It can really save a lot of time.
Did this route last week. heed the comments at the top of the page, the one about avoiding hauling especially. we started at 9:30 in the morning and reached the top at about 11:15 pm going at a moderate pace. There was a group that started about 10 minutes after us, and were hauling this bag that you could of parked your car in. They got off at about 11:15 pm the next day, which was totally fine in their case. They said they were just practing for bigger walls, and there really wasn't anybody behind them. It really just depends how you want to climb the thing. However, if there is a line at the bottom, you should really consider not hauling. other parties can always pass, but this too can get rather interesting at some the belays. Also, we didn't have a hook, and we wished we did. My buddy was tossing strings of stoppers at the pins on the 7th pitch, trying to hook them over the top, and had to use this crazy scary micro offwidth in this shitty placement on pitch eight. It actually blew out juuuust as he clipped the next pin. Fun stuff.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Oct 25, 2003
A few thoughts:
- Regarding the approach: Stay on the trail! We made the mistake of losing the trail and trying to bee-line to the base and got into cliffy, loose, shrubby terrain. The access trail heads well right of the start of the route to skirt around the lower cliff band before cutting back left to the base.
- To hook or not to hook. There is no mandatory hook move off the fourth belay anymore (with the addition of a rivet, I am assuming). At a mighty 5'6", I was able to clip it by top-stepping. The last real pitch has one hook move which can be eliminated with a simple cheater stick (about 8' between the pin and next bolt).
- C1 or C2? I've seen the route listed as both. I'd say there are certainly a handful of C2 moves but it's mostly C1.
- Concerning the "pendulums" through the Wrinkles. I don't think pendulum or tension traverse is really an accurate description. It's more like step over 3' into the next crack system. Not a big deal.
- Top-stepping - gotta do it sometimes! Everything is going to feel "reachy" if you're not willing to topstep.
Well, I used the hook pretty frequently. A few times to avoid crushing out he flaring tricam placements any further. At least 3 hook moves were 'enhanced' in appearance. I'm not making an etical qualm about this (afterall, it seems the same as a bolt or pin, but cheaper.) but am rather pointing out that the placements are 'near perfect.'
I'm giving the wall 2/3 stars. If it ended after the aid was over, it would get 3, but the last bit SUCKED! It sucked hard, that black-hole powered sucking sucked in some of the stars from neighboring pitches. We finished below another party and while on Pitch 7 were ducking rocks they were bumping off the ledge... it's almost unavoidable.
Make sure you call ahead to find out if the route is open! This summer we drove all the way there (from Salt Lake), purchased our backcountry permit and hiked to the base of the summit. Then a park ranger called us down and told us that the permit was issued by accident and that the route was closed due to peregrine falcons nesting 25 yards to the left of the route near the top. One other note... Zions is like an oven in July!!! You would either need to climb at night or find a route that is in the shade.
Anyone know about linking pitches with a sixty meter rope? How about pitch lengths? What about retreating from the wall? I've seen posting that say link: 1 and 2 3 and half of 4 half of 4 and 5 Can this be verified? Lastly, after much debate and no concensus, it looks like a rack of this description approximates what everyone in talking about: 2 ea. blue-red alien (or tcus of similar size) 1 ea. green-blue camalot (or slcd of similar size) 1 set nuts 1 set offset nuts (including micros) 1 hook -draws, slings, xtr carabiners, lockers, etc. -rivet hangers, stickclip, offset aliens, tricams useful but not necessary. Any additions?
I can't answer all your questions, Nick, but it seems like linking the pitches as you describe should work. There certainly was an extra anchor in the middle of the fourth pitch. It'd be kinda a shame, though, to pass up the only nice ledge on the whole route! :)
Your suggested rack sounds pretty good, however, I would strongly suggest adding another set of the med-large offset nuts--they fit extremely well!
By John McNamee Administrator From: Littleton, CO Oct 11, 2007
This is the rack I used the other day.
2 sets Black Diamond Wires plus extra 4 - 9 wires 1 BD Hook (Used once mid 3rd pitch) 2 Rivet Hangers 4 Tricams (Pink, Blue, Black, Red) 1 Set Metolius ultralite TCU'S (5) 2 Metolius Utralite Offset TCU's (Orange and Yellow) 2 x .5, .75, 1 Camalots 1 x 2, 3 Camalots 4 smallest Aliens 40 free biners
I backcleaned cams most of the time.
I didn't use any wires smaller than a size BD 2. No hb's or peanuts or offsets of any type. BD wires seemed to work very well. Some of the pods are getting really blown out.
If anyone whats detailed beta about soloing this route please email me.
I was on this route on Friday and there was a bolt missing from the third pitch bolt ladder. I was able to hook the bolt hole but it looks like you could get by with some trickery out left.
Soloed this route over the last couple days and it is really nice. Props to Ron O for scoping and linking the features----thanks. There is some supurb nutting on many pitches and being on the face of Angels Landing was nice way to view the canyon. Don't forget a skyhook. Many of the tricky sections I passed by standing higher in my aiders. I highly recommend this route.
Angel's Landing
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