BETA PHOTO: lower North face of Notch peak,seen from the appro...
Description
This route is located on the lower face of Notch Peak. It was put up in pure ground up style. It offers a challenge for climbers with experience on loose mountain routes. It is similar to big routes in the Canadian Rockies, or less traveled routes in the Italian Dolomites... serious and objectively hazardous. When combined with a route to the summit of Notch, it yields a grade V. Completed in 2001 it has only seen one complete ascent all the way to the summit (11 hrs, by the FA team who knew the terrain very well). Be aware that this route is somewhat more serious than Book of Saturdays or Western Hardman. At least one of those routes would be a good introduction into what to expect. Be ready, because this route will deliver big adventure. It is remote and long falls are possible. The crux pitches can be reduced to 5.11 A0. There is mandatory 5.10 runout climbing. The climbing may be generally described as vertical, technical, edges/crimps so bring your edging shoes. Good luck, take it seriously.
Location
Hike 50 minutes up the drainage under the N face of notch peak. A 4' cairn marks the place to head to the base of the route. See photos & get a topo at IME in Salt Lake. You can contact the FA team also. The start of the route is marked by a bolt with a yellow sling on it. The route can be rappeled with 2x 60M ropes. From the top band it may be preferable to hike out the approach to the upper wall, or rappel "Western Hardman" if you know that descent.
Protection
minimum of 1 set of cams, tcu's to 3.5"; 8 long runners. 14 quickdraws, 2x60m ropes. Bolts are 10mm stainless for protection and at all belay stations (nice) This route offers runouts, loose rock, difficult and committing climbing
This route is just like being in Canada. Do the link to La fin du monde or another route for a real day out. Go off route to see how lose the rock can be.
Why, depsite all the wonderul descriptors above did I climb this route? I am a glutton for punishment, I guess... a masochist of misery, if you will. Or I guess, like Jim Howe, I have an insatiable Appetite For Destruction.
That said, it is a mastery of route finding and these chosskateers doing the best with what was provided. Hats off to those who put themselves at gunpoint on every lead of this routes first ascent. I have never seen a better example of "because it's there"... there can't be any other reason for putting up a route on this vertical kitty litter.
Quality aside, the topo and views are pretty good for this route. The 'gorge' looks like an Albino Grand Canyon, minus the tourists, river, and enjoyable hiking. Only one rack of cams to hand size, no doubles. The 11a and 11d pitches were really quite enjoyable, along with sections of the crux pitch. The rest, however, was absolute hair raising agony. Dirt, loose rock, and stressful climbing were the norm.
I imagine climbing another route in the canyon first would be some good advice(as given above), but my partner and I figured this was the first and last time we'd be here, so might as well get the worst of it, eh?
We both grew up on choss limestone in Missouri, and figured this was a qwerky extension of our Missouri Ninja skills. We never knew how good we had it.
Some thoughts from Team Choss Chuck'n:
Pitch 1: Nasty, but standard nasty. Like Paris Hilton I guess.
Pitch 2: Actually really nice climbing, but very height dependant crux.
3rd class ledge: actually 60 feet, not 300
Pitch 3: Rotten as a skid mark on 4 day worn undies. I'd probably give this pitch an 'x'. Makes Garden of The Gods sandstone look like Eldorado Canyon.
Pitch 4: Sustained, exposed, well protected, and very entertaining. Cool mantles and a cryptic, technical crux.
Pitch 5: If only it were a little cleaner, we could call this pitch the best of the route. The crux dihedral is sustained, but well protected (a tcu supplements the bolts nicely). The upper section is a bit creepy, passing through a number of precarious moves and features that threaten to blow off in your face at any given time.
Pitch 6: The business. I would definitely give this pitch an "x". My guess is the only reason it is not more protected by bolts is that the rotton rock wouldn't take it? This pitch is only made more difficult by the fact that you have been on edge for most of the route; the flies are buzzing around your face; and massive rock falls are echoing from across the canyon.
Pitch 7: You know when you vomit just a little bit and it sits in your mouth for awhile? That would be this pitch. We linked this with the next pitch with a little simul climbing. Half way through you bushwack through a dirt slope littered with dinner plate blocks. If ANYTHING cuts loose, you will nail your belayer. Go slow, Choss Ninjas. Choose life.
Pitch 8: Traverse 50 feet right to the corner, marked by a lone bolt with a sling hanging from it. The corner above is pretty cool and aesthetic, albeit pretty fuzzy with lichen. The top out is beautiful, and the view of the Notch summit and the desert to the west is striking.
Descent: We rapped Western Hardman, to avoid having to downclimb the 3rd class section on this route. There is some funky business on the second rap. We planned on summiting, but had a late start to the day due to bad directions. The turnoff from 6/50 is milepoint 33, not 43.
good on you Jer ... more than a few have bailed ... it seems like your memory is quite vivid! This route started and ended as an adventure ... and it seems like you had that experience too. Sorry you ran out of time as the ridge to the summit makes a fine end to the day.
That's a good 3rd party decription. While putting up the route, we were able to minimize the risks. I would'nt simu-climb any pitch as it really does expose the 2nd to rockfall from the leader. The belays are usually out of the way of the leaders on lead cleaning during the FA. I love solid, well traveled rock routes as much as the next climber, but sometimes we are looking for some other kind of adventure, it sounds like you found it.
West Desert
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