Mt. Nebo Wilderness on south side of Santaquin Canyon. MORE INFO >>>
The Mount Nebo Wilderness boundary parallels approximately 100-200 yards south of the Santaquin Canyon road from the mouth of the canyon to Tinney Flat Campground. Wilderness rules apply within the wilderness area (nothing mechanized or motorized allowed, including power drills).
BETA PHOTO: Avalanche debris at base of Squash Head (Jan. 07')
Description
Usually done in two pitches. The first pitch is a steep curtain of ice about 40 feet tall. In poor conditions there is a bolt ladder on the left to bypass the first curtain. The 10 bolt ladder is a route called Martini (A0, M8-9).
P1 - (WI4) Usually lots of water running down the first curtain and lots of air pockets. Hopefully good screw placements can be found. Pull over the top to low angle climbing for 30 feet, then walk up a short distance to a scramble to chain anchors on the left.
P2 - (WI3) Another fun pitch. Climb the narrow formation for 50 feet to a low angle chute. Chain anchors are up the chute on the left.
Rappel the route, or continue on to Backoff. To get to Backoff, scramble up the rock/snow above Squash Head's top anchors to the top of the ridge to rappel chains. Rap down the other side of the ridge using a single 60m rope to reach the bottom of Backoff.
Location
The route is on the south side of the canyon .50 miles up the canyon from the Trumbolt Picnic Area locked gate. The climb is easily seen from the road. Short hike from the road to the base.
Protection
Bring long ice screws for the first curtain. Shorter screws may be needed over the top.
Under the right conditions avalanches can rip down this gully.
Warning! Squash Head is prone to avalanches from above. In Jan. 07' my partner and I found a huge debris field with timber in it at the base. Other than that, great route when combined with Backoff.
Also, it should be noted that you can reach the base of Backoff from the top of squash head with a single 60m rope. At least we were able to yesterday.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
