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Santaquin Canyon Ice
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Angel of Fear 
Automatic Control Theory 
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Candlestick, The 
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Squash Head 
Unnamed 

Squash Head 

WI3-4

   

FA: Doug Hansen
Type: Ice
Consensus: WI3-4 [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 300 feet
Season: Winter (Dec to Feb)
Views: 571 page views

Submitted By: John Ross on Oct 29, 2006


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Mt. Nebo Wilderness on south side of Santaquin Canyon. MORE INFO >>>

BETA PHOTO: Avalanche debris at base of Squash Head (Jan. 07')


Description 

Usually done in two pitches. The first pitch is a steep curtain of ice about 40 feet tall. In poor conditions there is a bolt ladder on the left to bypass the first curtain. The 10 bolt ladder is a route called Martini (A0, M8-9).

P1 - (WI4) Usually lots of water running down the first curtain and lots of air pockets. Hopefully good screw placements can be found. Pull over the top to low angle climbing for 30 feet, then walk up a short distance to a scramble to chain anchors on the left.

P2 - (WI3) Another fun pitch. Climb the narrow formation for 50 feet to a low angle chute. Chain anchors are up the chute on the left.

Rappel the route, or continue on to Backoff. To get to Backoff, scramble up the rock/snow above Squash Head's top anchors to the top of the ridge to rappel chains. Rap down the other side of the ridge using a single 60m rope to reach the bottom of Backoff.


Location 

The route is on the south side of the canyon .50 miles up the canyon from the Trumbolt Picnic Area locked gate. The climb is easily seen from the road. Short hike from the road to the base.


Protection 

Bring long ice screws for the first curtain. Shorter screws may be needed over the top.

Under the right conditions avalanches can rip down this gully.



Photos of Squash Head Slideshow Add Photo
Squash Head from the road

BETA PHOTO: Squash Head from the road

<a href='/v/utah/wasatch_range/santaquin_canyon/105879672'>Squash Head</a>: Usually done in two pitches. In poor conditions there is a bolt ladder to bypass the first curtain. Chains for the top of the last pitch are up the chute on the left. To get to <a href='/v/utah/wasatch_range/santaquin_canyon/105879679'>Backoff</a> from here scramble up the rock above the anchors to the top of the ridge to rappel chains. Rap down the other side of the ridge using a single 70m rope to reach the bottom of <a href='/v/utah/wasatch_range/santaquin_canyon/105879679'>Backoff</a>.<br />(Photo: Feb. 10, 2005)

BETA PHOTO: Squash Head: Usually done in two pitches. In poo...

Cell phone photo of <a href='/v/utah/wasatch_range/santaquin_canyon/105879672'>Squash Head</a> on 12-22-07.

Cell phone photo of Squash Head on 12-22-07.


Comments on Squash Head Add Comment
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By P. Ivaska
Oct 10, 2007

Warning! Squash Head is prone to avalanches from above. In Jan. 07' my partner and I found a huge debris field with timber in it at the base. Other than that, great route when combined with Backoff.

By builttospill
Jan 25, 2009

Also, it should be noted that you can reach the base of Backoff from the top of squash head with a single 60m rope. At least we were able to yesterday.