This thing doesn't look like much. At first glance, you think to yourself "That's 5.8? Nah, it looks easier than that!" Yeah, it's easier than that... until you get to the 5.8 roof.
Start ten or so feet left of Givin the Dog a Bone and hand traverse over using the rightward-leaning diagonal crack. Scramble up into a corner, get some gear in, then climb up a bit more to the roof. The crack under the roof takes good gear. Surmount the roof using less-than-ideal holds and finish her off with an easy diagonal crack leading to the chains.
Location
Start just left of Givin the Dog a Bone. The start of the right is a short, right-trending crack for your hands. It shares anchors with the bolted routes to the right of it.
I assume this route is Andy's (if not I'll change it). This route isn't terribly spectacular but is worth doing once.
For gear, I took one each from purple (.5) to blue (3) Camalot. You probably won't place all of them but you could if you wanted to. Doing it again, I'd probably take two greens (.75) and leave the purple.
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