Roofs, slabs, jugs, flakes, crimps, and slopers. This route delivers!
Starting left of the corner, climb up past three bolts to a roof. Climb up and over the roof to a vertical section with really good holds. This brings you to the steep crux. Pull down hard and fast on crimps to see if you can avoid the impending doom in your forearms until you get to the chains.
While no one particular move on the route is super hard, very few moves are super easy, for one reason or another. Maybe the rock is bad, maybe the holds are not quite as positive as they look, or maybe they're facing the wrong way. Regardless, this route offers quality climbing.
Location
This route lies between the two main sections of routes on the Hidden. It climbs up the somewhat sinister-looking black water streaks. To the left of Tales From the Gripped is a steep dihedral. Doom climbs the obvious face to the left of the dihedral and to the right of a tree.
The only reason I'm not giving this route three stars is that it's still a bit dirty in a couple sections. After getting more traffic, I'll climb it again and probably give it three stars. This thing is rad, intense, a bit burly, and climbs unlike anything else on the wall. I knocked a ton of loose rock off this route but it's unlikely I got everything. The belayer should stand a couple feet off to the right and any falling debris will completely miss him or her. Still, don't let that deter you! I really, really liked this route! It feels rather sinister and ominous (though the bolts are close together) and a lot of the moves leave you feeling a bit uneasy before you commit, hence the name.
(Also, this might be .11a... I'm bad at rating routes.)
I'll go ahead and give it that 3rd star! Fantastic route. Yeah, it's a bit dirty still but a new route is always going to be a bit dirty. The character of the line changes 3 times: The lower section is much trickier than it looks; very technical. The roof is easy and fun, which leads to a strange section with lots of rests. It was just weirder than it looks like it should be. Then comes the climax: A steep sequential series of moves that is again, tougher than it looks at first. Many features that look like nice big holds turn out to be only so-so, if not total junk. This cruxy stuff keeps the pump going until you are basically at the chains. In some ways, this is one of the best lines on the wall.
RSS Feed
