Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Tatooine
Show routes:
Select route...
Force, The 
Hyperspace 
Jawa Jam 
Leia Needs A Lightsaber 
Leia's Leash 
Millennium Falcon 
Phantom Menace, The 
Scum and Villainy 
Spaceballs 
Star Destroyer 
That's Not A Lightsaber 
This Is A Lightsaber! 
Triumphal Arch 

Spaceballs 

5.10d

   

FA: Darren Knezek
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10d [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 140 feet
Views: 231 page views

Submitted By: Darren Knezek on Apr 28, 2009


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Description 

The climbing on this one is way out there in exposure. You can do this one in two pitches or one long pitch that's definitely a lot more pumpy. Start about twenty feet to the right of Phantom Menace. It's just to the right of a small pine.

Pitch One is a killer combo of small flake-edges and pockets. A neat crux for three bolts and then plain ole' jug cruising.

Pitch Two. Climb the arete using holds on both sides. Climb past a cool monkey bar to a small ledge with scooped out holds. In the ceiling above is a killer two-finger pocket, the rest is up to you.
You barely reach the ground with one 70-meter rope.


Location 

This route is about twenty feet to the right of the large left-facing corner called, The Phantom Menace. It's a few feet to the right of the pine tree.


Protection 

13 quickdraws if you're doing it in two pitches or 21 quickdraws if you're doing it in one pitch.



Comments on Spaceballs Add Comment
Show which comments
By Darren Knezek
Jun 2, 2009

I added the first pitch to this climb today and if you do it as one long pitch it definitely goes up to four stars, at least for me.