Blanchard bolting Jawa. A very long route and a ve...
Description
70m rope required.
A long, moderate, bolted line whose character changes several times as the route ascends through varying limestone bands. Fun, occasionally tricky movement with an intimidating-looking section through the right edge of a double-roof area.
Start by climbing to the left of a short, semi-detached "pillar". Follow the initially-rightward-trending bolt line through steep, rough limestone on small edges to a ledge. From the ledge ascend along the right of a groove to the base of a somewhat overhanging section to the right of a large roof system.
Surmount the steepness and follow the natural weakness to the left and upward to the chains.
Location
Climbs through a natural weakness to the right of the large, double-roof area near the right side of Tattoine. The start is found to the left of a short (seven-foot or so) "pillar".
Follow the trail through the Galaxy Area to approximately the middle of Tattoine, then backtrack south and up to the base of the wall.
Very exciting for a 5.9 with killer exposure and a steep section that's a blast followed by a strange but fun corner ending. About as good as this grade gets in RC.
Really enjoyed this one. The cruxes are quick and there are plenty of rests. The upper part looks intimidating but there are lots of good jugs/rails. So if you are just below the roofs and they are overwhelming you...just go for it and you will be pleasantly surprised.
**Keep an eye on the end of your rope when lowering!
Amazing climb! Coming out from the corner onto the exposed face is nerve-wracking move. I left a draw up there and went to get it 2 days later but it was gone. Has anyone grabbed a Cypher draw recently?
By John Ross From: Spanish Fork, UT May 9, 2009 rating: 5.9
A long fun climb start to finish. Well protected route on quality, textured limestone. Worth the hike by itself. Other great routes in the area make this area a fine climbing area.
Climbed this on Saturday right before the storm rolled in. The really small but critical left foothold when going through the roof at the last bolt broke when I stepped on it. Guess I need to shed a few pounds.
By Jon Bitter From: Provo, UT Sep 5, 2009 rating: 5.9
Super fun route. I would recommend using a 70m rope, but if you really want to do it with a 60m rope, I can testify that it is doable. Just make sure you tie a not in the end of your rope. To get the climber all the way down, he will have to clean his draws on the way down so that the rope travels a straight line. That will barely put him on the ground. (also, that exposed foothold is still there... maybe just smaller than before)
I climbed this today just before Jon. Lots of fun. Love that exposed move through the roof ledges. That foothold is about 3/4 inch deep and 3 inches long, so pretty small for such an exposed move, which makes it all the more fun! This is my idea of fun rock climbing.
This climb is long! It has a lot of variety with stemming, booking, facing and lunging. Nice work Perin on bolt placements, cleaning and imagining. Clap clap clap!
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