This 3 pitch climb goes directly up the buttress pulling over bulges and steep faces. The climbing is quite varied and adventurous. The belays are bolted at good stances and the rock quality is quite good.
Pitch 1; 5.9+ 30 meters. Climb past 12 bolts to double ring anchors at stance in a nice alcove making sure to runner some of the bolts to avoid rope drag.
Pitch 2; 5.8 33 meters. Climb past 6 bolts to a steep slot where you can place a good #1 Camalot in a crack, continue up blocky terrain past 2 more bolts then traverse left to a double ring anchor on a ledge. Slings are useful to avoid rope drag.
Pitch 3; 5.9+ 35 meters. Climb up past the first bolt to a crack that takes a #1 Camalot. Continue up over the bulge to a hanging slab and clip 2 more bolts to the right of the dihedral. Climb up to the roof placing a #4 Camalot in the dihedral to the left. At the roof you can place a #2 Camalot or climb just a little past the roof to a bolt. Pull the roof and clip 2 more bolts then place a #3 Camalot in a horizontal crack. Pull over the bulging flake and clip the last 3 bolts on the sweet face, topping out on a ledge next to a bush with double ring anchors.
Location
Start on the lowest point of the green tillite rock about 10 meters left of Brain Full of Spiders. Follow the light grey hangers to the top. It is possible to rappel the route with a 70 meter rope but walking off is a much easier option.
Protection
I would recommend bringing at least 12 quickdraws, 6-8 shoulder length slings, a few extra carabiners, and at least the #1 and #4 Camalots. And as with most climbs on this buttress, bringing a helmet is a good idea.
Finished off the first 2 pitches of this today so it now goes from the ground up instead of starting on Be All That You Can Be. Thought it was going to be harder that 5.9 but it was a blast anyways.
By Perin Blanchard Administrator From: Orem, UT Feb 23, 2009
Nice work, Christian. Looks like simply lovely chossiness.
By Perin Blanchard Administrator From: Orem, UT Mar 15, 2009
This is a fun route!
The rock gets progressively better the higher you go, until a simply stellar third pitch on excellent, beautiful quartzite.
For all of you choss haters out there, however, be aware that the first pitch of this line is pretty loose.
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