Jonny Wilson taming the crux of Chupacabra (5.10a)...
Description
This is a great climb! Climb past a couple bolts to a steeper headwall section. Pull past this section on lots of fun pulling on great jugs. That's the crux, but it's also the best part of the route. After that, the route slabs out a bit up to the chains.
Location
The steep prow/corner that is between the left slab (the section of wall that has Call of the Wild and Serengeti on it) and the right slab (the section of wall with Stampede and Welcome to the Jungle on it). Access it from the main landing (the landing under the slab routes on the left side of the Wild).
Ended up climbing a bit differently that we thought, but it wound up being pretty darn good. Mostly a jug haul up a steep wall but there are a few smaller, hard to see, holds thrown in for your pleasure.
The most difficult climb on the wall. In my opinion, this is one of the best 5.10a's in the canyon. Pulling through the crux requires laybacking off of a sweet flake/rail. Just plain fun climbing.
8/21/08 EDIT: I've seen some people stay right at the 3rd bolt, avoiding the sweet (yet kinda powerful) lieback crux moves. If you do this, I don't think it's quite 5.10. The intended route is more to the left, up the steeper bulge. Either way is good, but be warned that there is probably more loose rock on the right side variation.
The Wild
RSS Feed
