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Dark Matter 

5.11b

   

FA: Christian Burrell and Tristan Higbee
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
Views: 127 page views

Submitted By: criscokid on Jul 12, 2008


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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The sun in the eyes makes the crimps hard to see.


Description 

Another fantastic line. Shares the same first clip as Milky Way but head up twards an obvious hole. Small finger jugs (a tad dirty, but cleaning up) leads to a steller steep upper headwall with small but very solid crimps. The last real challenge (and pobably the crux) is a deadpoint to a good hold near at the top. Get your feet high! The route might be a bit over-bolted but at least you never really have to worry about taking a big fall.


Protection 

8 bolts and chains



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By Tristan Higbee
From: Provo, Utah
Jul 12, 2008

I have personal issues with this climb. I don't like it. The first couple times I tried to redpoint it, holds broke off up high and I peeled. I don't like doing climbs more than once, and I essentially had to do this climb several times before I got it. Lame.

I definitely do NOT think it's worth 4 stars. I think it's good overall, and that the upper headwall is great. The bottom half is dirty and not super solid. Honestly, I'd give it 2.5 stars, but Christian would be mad at me, so I'm giving it 3.

The crux for me was up high -- definitely the long reach from crimps and bad feet to the jug.

By criscokid
From: PG, Utah
Jul 26, 2008

Tristan is just bitter...

By Clay Allred
Jul 31, 2008

Tristan is just bitter :) This route is killer. I was all smiles on this super sick 11b.