P1 (60', 5.7) A fun, interesting pitch on good feet and positive handholds through very good quality rock. Start on a small ledge and climb low-angled terrain through the first bolt to a short headwall. A fun move or two to get past the steep bit, clip a bolt, and then bear left.
Climb a steeper section through three bolts on good holds, and then continue on somewhat lowered angled rock to the anchors.
P2 (80', 5.10a) Climb up and left from the anchor past two bolts to an overhanging v-slot. Clip the bolt under the intimidating overhang with a longer draw and get established via positive handholds and small footholds. Fun stemming and liebacking moves.
Continue up on large handholds to another intimidating overhang with rounded, rough-textured handholds. Another series of really fun, big moves surmounts this feature. Continue up and over the last small overhang and look left and back for the chain anchors.
Walk off north (quick and easy) or two single rope rappels.
Location
Counting from the route in the left black streak, this is the fourth route from the left.
Protection
P1 7 bolts, hangers-and-rings anchors (shared with Shot Down in Flames to the left).
P2 9 bolts, chain anchors (facing away from the gully, located over your left shoulder as you reach the top of the climb).
Rope drag is heavy when toproping or lowering off the first pitch. Bring something to extend the anchors and be prepared to abrade your rope.
Bring a couple of slings or longer draws for both the first and second pitches.
Aaron Childs and I finished the 2nd pitch of this route through the black streaked corner. Excellent rock and fun moves over steep bulges and corners. Its about 5.10a and has 9 bolts to chain anchors. You can rappel with a 60m rope or walk off.
I think that the first pitch on this one is one of the better 5.7's in RC compared to the other 5.7's that are dead vertical and not a slab. Wild 2nd pitch that climbs thru every type of Tintic Quartzite you've seen on this side of the canyon.
By Bad Sock Puppet From: With the climbing Gods Jun 22, 2008
Loose rock, so it might be a good idea for the belayer to wear a helmet. Easy climbing, but you'd break your shins if you were to fall. From anchors at the 1st pitch, veer left to bolt below a large crack. Start in lieback, working up, then start stemming to get over the top. Look carefully for the bolts after this part, as they weren't obvious to spot. A few runners would be very good to cut down on the rope drag. Easy rap down.
AC/DC Wall
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