Darren Knezek grinning as the holds fly while Aaro...
Description
Slightly overhanging cruxes are in several places along the route. The rock quality is good but since it follows a natural drainage beware of gravely ledges. Bring a helmet and you are fine. The mental crux is right at the top.
Location
Pitch one starts on Drivers Test, clip the anchor and keep going past 2 bolts to the ledge. Once on top you can rappel the route with a 60m rope or walk off.
Protection
Pitch 1: 11 Bolts to Ring Anchors. Pitch 2: 9 Bolts to Ring Anchors. Pitch 3: 7 Bolts to Ring Anchors.
As always for this area it is useful to have some runners to help with rope drag. And a helmet is a good idea no matter where you climb.
By Bad Sock Puppet From: With the climbing Gods Jul 25, 2008
Doesn't seem to matter which route you choose for the first pitch, but beware of taking one of the left routes as you'll most likely send large rocks down toward your partner as you scramble for the bottom of the second pitch. Second pitch is more solid, however it turns into a 5.6 near the middle. There is a small fun roof near the top. The third pitch isn't a 5.9 (maybe 5.7), and there didn't seem to be any pattern to the placement of the bolts. The third pitch isn't worth the effort unless you plan on walking off. Some vegetation in the way.
Scary. Exposed....yet fun in a sick kinda way. Classic Jobsite.
By Tristan Higbee From: Provo, Utah Aug 20, 2009 rating: 5.8
I thought this route was great! I agree that nothing on the climb felt like 5.9. I actually think that the starting moves on Driver's Test are the crux of the whole route, with the start of the second pitch being the same kind of thing but with better holds. The third pitch felt like 5.7. I actually liked this route more than Cosmic Space Dust Lazers. There wasn't much loose rock and most of the holds felt pretty solid. Nice!
EDIT: Went back and climbed it again on August 22, 2009, and thought the first two pitches were 5.8 and the third was 5.7. I can't tell if I think the first or second pitch is harder.
I agree with T-Hig. I thought this route was great, some really sick jugs, and a huge ledge on pitch 3 or three, plus the weird tooth that stick outs on pitch 2 (which should be used creatively). I also agree that the crux is of the whole climb is basically the first move of the first pitch, which is pretty bouldery. Everything else is really obvious, pretty juggy, really fun. Definitely a three star climb, I highly recommend it.
I can't decide what this is rated... I felt like pitch 2 was the crux. But whichever pitch is the crux, both are over quick. I thought the 3rd pitch was the most interesting though. Bring slings as the route moves back and forth a bit here and there.