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The Higher, Harder One 

5.12a

   

FA: Darren Knezek, Bill Boyle
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Views: 85 page views

Submitted By: criscokid on May 21, 2008


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Description 

Got on this before I knew which route was which. I intended to do Simple Simon but the big starting holds on this made me think I was on Simon. But the route just kept going and had moves that were way harder than 11b. I was really enjoying the sequences though so I decided to just climb it. Granted it took a few more tries..


Location 

The big jugs to the left of the Simple Simon start and just keep going...and going...


Protection 

All bolts



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By Darren Knezek
May 22, 2008
rating: 5.12a

The FA was Darren Knezek and Bill Boyle. I originally climbed to the left from the anchors of Simple Simon using nuts and cams and put the anchors halfway up the wall. Called it the High, Hard One and rated it 5.11b. The old anchors stopped right in the middle of the climbing. A few years later Boyle wanted to extend the route up to the top of the wall as well as the climb to the left called Everest 101. I agreed as we both thought the routes should stop where the climbing stops and the grades went from the 5.11's to the 5.12's. Even though I put it up, I think its the best of the 12a's here on The Bad Bananas Wall. A really neat pumpy start followed by a tricky rest and then a steep powerful ending.