Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Bolt Slab
Show routes:
Select route...
Chimney Route 
Dance of the Pregnant Wildebeest 
Double Jam 
Meadow Muffin 
Sky Hook 
Two to Tango 
Two-Nut Muffin 

Dance of the Pregnant Wildebeest 

5.8

   

FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 161 page views

Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on May 3, 2008


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

BETA PHOTO: Bolt Slab, North Face
1 Dance of the Pregnant Wildebeest 5.8...



Description 

A stiff, overhanging quartzite route with crack jamming, face climbing, and a bit of balancy stemming.

Start up easy, blocky terrain at the left of the Bolt Slab’s North Face and reach the roof with two more-or-less hand-sized, parallel cracks. Follow these cracks up a bit and then bear right a little.

Clip two fixed pins and head farther right and up through overhanging, strenuous territory to the larger, broken crack. Follow this up and around to the east side and the anchors.


Location 

At the left side of the Bolt Slab’s North Face. A roof with two parallel hand-cracks above is the obvious marker.


Protection 

Stoppers, small to medium cams, 2 fixed pins, slings for horns, hangers-and-rings anchors.



Add Comment Comments on Dance of the Pregnant Wildebeest
Show which comments
By Christian Knight
From: Provo, UT
May 9, 2008

Perin, I noticed you started a little far left. The original line goes straight up and pumps the hell out of you right from the start. The hand crack is another line put up by Darren Knezek that also goes straight up. Don't you just love classic rock canyon north facing sandbags?

By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
May 9, 2008

Sheesh, you mean I have to go do it again? (Darren told me about his line, but he implied it was just a .10d variation straight up from the pins).

By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
May 15, 2008

Hey Christian, looks like I don't have to go do it again. Darren K. says that the line I did is Pregnant Wildebeest; the line you did is a .10a called Two to Tango (at least that's what Pedersen, et al. always called it). I'll update the topo one of these days with it and with Darren's variant finish to Wildebeest (called Breech Baby, .10d).

By Christian Knight
From: Provo, UT
May 19, 2008

Looks like I need to go do it again. No wonder that thing felt so hard.

By criscokid
From: PG, Utah
May 21, 2008

Despite the apparent confusion this route seems to be causing. I loved it! Fun crack climbing to a really cool upper face. I remember the upper face being a bit pumpy.