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Roaches on a Face 

5.10d R

   

FA: Bart Dahneke
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.10d [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 90 feet
Views: 89 page views

Submitted By: Christian Knight on May 8, 2008


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BETA PHOTO: 19 Roaches on a Face 5.10d R


Description 

The bolts may be far apart but the potential to deck is quite low. Exciting moves to the lip of the overhang. Beautiful face climbing on immaculate quartzite. Gives you a proper lead head and a sense of accomplishment. Just commit and you'll see.


Location 

Blank looking face in the middle of the wall. Climbs through the middle of the overhang right of Main Crack. Lower or rappel off with a 60 meter rope.


Protection 

4 bolts to chain anchors. You can place some small gear between the bolts.



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By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
May 9, 2008

An intimidating and exhilarating climb.

I wouldn't call it a sport route. I slung a couple of horns and used (very) small nuts before the bolts, between the first and second bolts, and above the bolts. If you don't use the gear...Christian is right, the potential for decking is remote, but a fall would be long and potentially damaging. But if you use gear, this route isn't R-rated.

The roof is intimidating, but surprisingly, turning it is not the most difficult bit.