By Perin Blanchard Administrator From: Orem, UT Apr 26, 2008
I did this today in two pitches. I took only sport draws and the rope drag was truly heinous as I started up the section above the belay ledge mentioned by Christian in the description. So much so that I didn't think I could make it to the top. I downclimbed a bit and belayed my partner up from the anchor mentioned by Christian, then continued to the top. A few longer runners at strategic bolts would no doubt help.
Christian shows a good eye on this route; fun, lots of easy climbing with a few short sections of somewhat harder moves. There is one bit that can't be more than 5.5 because of the huge handholds, but it is exposed and a tiny bit overhung and so is really a blast.
We got off in three rappels. The walk off is probably faster but my partner for the day hates walk offs.
Did this route this morning in 3 pitches. Third pitch was the best, with the most difficult and interesting climbing. I don't think that this is a good route for beginners or people not comfortable leading harder than 5.8. There are a ton of large, loose, crumbly holds that if just pulled on the wrong way will come off. Be very careful when climbing this route if there are people on the routes below you.
Overall, I enjoyed this route and I'm glad I did it, but feel that Snatch and even Ledgorithm are better routes with less choss.
Not a beginners route! I grabbed several large holds right next to bolts and they completely fell apart in my hands. Too much loose rock above other popular climbs. We planned to do the rap off but again there were large death blocks right on the lip and we decided that we didn't want to risk it so we walked off. I WILL say that you do achieve a pretty cool position for such a moderate route.And if you are experienced with loose climbs you can have a very enjoyable experience.
While I agree tat Cosmic Space Dust Lazers is not a gimme at the grade, I appreciated that adventure. The rock is a little crumbly, though no more than the classic lines on trilogy (Lord of the slings third pitch may now be an exception to that) and is reminiscent of the classic quartzite "down, not out" principle. There are no runouts, and all the anchors are bomber, so you don't have the pucker factor you get on climbs like Jungle Rot Slot or Banana Dreams.
I especially enjoyed that traverse at the beginning of pitch 2, (old pitch 1) which was not really hard, but awkward enough to keep things interesting. Also, there are many sections of steep climbing, of the sort you don't get on 5.8, but can exist because of the huge jugs everywhere. Fun and different moves from start to finish.
Like almost all Rock Canyon multi-pitch climbs, walking off is a smart idea. The walk of is easy and straightforward, and takes less time than rappelling.
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