The crux comes right at the start. Look for a really neat white crimp under the second bolt and head out left. The corner looks nice but it is actually a bit crumbly.
The hardest climb on this part of the wall, for sure. The first bit of climbing is kinda crumbly, but it should clean up with more ascents. I'll head back up there sometime soon and scrub off more of the loose stuff. I think it's 5.10a, but maybe that's just because I was concentrating extra hard on not breaking the holds... After the third bolt, it's cruiser easy slab climbing to the top. This climb shares anchors with the route to the right.
EDIT: Another note on the rating: When old man Burrell started climbing, 5.9 was the hardest thing around. So now, if anything is remotely hard it's 5.9 unless I talk him out of it. I still think this is 5.10a.
Got on this one again the other day. It's a lot cleaner now than it was before. I quite enjoyed it. And yeah, it could be 5.9. My apologies, Christian... But it's a tricky 5.9. I took some friends up there who can climb slabby 5.9s and they couldn't do the crux on this route. You need arm power.
By Tristan Higbee From: Provo, Utah Nov 17, 2008 rating: 5.10a
Got on this one yet again over the weekend... And I think 5.9 is a bit of a sandbag. The crux is just a couple moves, but I think most 5.9 climbers would be shut down by them.
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