BETA PHOTO: The Training Camp two-pitch routes. 2 [[1...
Description
A very enjoyable, well bolted route with an airy, intimidating roof right at the top.
P1 (Rookie of the Year 5.9, 40') Start on the left side of the alcove that sits at the bottom right of the buttress. Climb up and over a small overhang using large, but in somewhat suspect holds on fractured, light-colored rock. There is a spot before the overhang which will swallow most of your left leg, allowing a no hands rest (although you shouldn’t need it at that point). After surmounting the overhang using good footwork continue on lower-angled rock to the anchors.
P2 (An All Star 5.10a, 100') Start up on good quality, hard, reddish quartzite on the right side of the arete forming the southeast corner of the buttress. As you approach the arete you’ll come very close to the route to the left. Stay on the right bolted line.
Follow the bolts through a shallow dihedral/trough to a small roof. After overcoming this obstacle look up at the final roof and think, “Oh surely not!” That, however, is your goal. Climb up past a couple of bolts to just underneath the roof. Clip the bolt at the lip and remember that it is .10a. The moves over the roof are airy, extremely enjoyable, and most remarkably, not terribly strenuous.
Location
Located on a tall buttress on the north side of the canyon, at the west end, just before the terrain starts sloping down to the west. Find the east-most (right-most) line of bolts on the shattered, white rock below that leads up the buttress above. There are two other routes up the upper buttress; this is the right-most (the others, from left to right are .10c and .9). There is also a short, one-pitch, bolted line to this route’s right.
Protection
P1 6 or 7 bolts, hangers-and-rings anchors.
P2 12 bolts, anchor is bolts and hangers with large chains attached.
Training Camp
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