Start on a ledge above the talus field in the gully. The moves to the first bolt are kind of balancy. Getting to and clipping the second bolt is a bit reachy, and you don’t want to fall before clipping the second bolt.
Once the second bolt is clipped the real business begins. A couple of pockets that force you right, a jug or two, sidepulls, and hidden holds make for an interesting sequence to the third bolt. Good feet at this point means a quick rest before committing to the moves to get over a bulge to the fourth bolt. After the fourth bolt, it is easy climbing to the chains.
Location
The right of the two bolted routes in the black streaks on the east wall of the gully.
Protection
4 bolts, chain anchors (shared with Thunderstruck to the left).
If it were longer, it would earn the fourth star! Excellent climbing that felt like limestone climbing to me. The bolt spacing keeps your attention for sure. A good idea to use a stick clip and pre-hang the draws if you are not solid at this grade, maybe even if you are.
This is really a great route for so many reasons. I first tried this climb at the end of a very long climbing day and fell trying to clip the second bolt. Not a good idea! Thanks to my belayer for saving my ankles. Anyway, went back last Friday and stick clipped the second draw so that I could clip a little lower (mentally I couldn't get past that last fall). In any event, great climb with several very cool moves.
Ok route but you certainly wouldn't want to fall as this route is like climbing on razor blades. Most solid rock of all the AC/DC wall. Very short. Easy Top out. Crux between second and third bolts. In my opinion not worth the scramble up the rock slide.
AC/DC Wall
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