A short, low-angle, bolted route whose main redeeming feature is that it provides a different way to get to the base of the Ed and Terry wall from the top of the Red Slab.
Mossy in a couple of spots, and positive edges the whole way.
The anchor is above a ledge on which you can traverse left to get to the base of Ed and Terry proper.
Location
Starts to the right of the right-to-left-upward-sloping ramp that most people use to get to the base of the Ed and Terry wall from the area above the Red Slab.
Protection
4 bolts to chains (as well as tied cord in March 2007). Left of the anchor about 10 feet and a bit lower there is a bolt that you can clip as you scoot along the ledge (it’d be a bumpy, nasty fall from the ledge - we belayed each other from the anchor to the bolt).
There is actually another bolt right at the foot of the route (a couple inches above the ground). I would love to hear from the party who put up route what they were thinking with this bolt. I can only guess that they put up this route to practice their bloting skills, or to anchor their belayer.
If the route continued up the pilar it would actually be fairly fun for the final 15 feet (probably about 5.6/5.7), but as it is the route is mostly useful to teach a beginner how to lead, or as a fun route for small children. However, the approach up Red Slab is much harder then this "route".
By Perin Blanchard Administrator From: Orem, UT Mar 26, 2007
I've always assumed that such bottom bolts are put there so people could practice rope-solo leading. There are a few such bottom anchors in American Fork Canyon at Hard Rock.
A friend and I bolted this route on lead from hooks. the bottom bolt is because my wife is half my weight, and being pulled up low angle slab sucks. We didn't go to the top of the Pillar is because it shifted under my friends body weight. First route I ever put up, mostly as an access thing. Do what you will. (the route was called "vote for your mom" and was originally rated 5.3. Jason Klemick and Adam Wilson)
Ed and Terry Wall
RSS Feed
