BETA PHOTO: George from the Northeast 1 Crushed Velvet 5.7 2 [...
Description
Often tried and often backed off...there are actually some pretty darn good holds that seem to hide pretty well. If you hang on past the second bolt, it eases off a lot.
Absolutely goes trad. if you can muster the courage to ignore the big fat RED bolts.
Climbed this one today for the first time. Did it all on trad gear, no bolts. I think it wasn't quite as hard as Turtle's Crack (AKA Martha), its neighbor, but I'm not sure. I used a few C3s (purple and green, I think), a small nut or two, a #2 Camalot, #3 Camalot, and I think the .75 and Camalot. Fun!
Mostly 10a/b except for the difficult crux with tricky footwork (2nd-3rd bolt) which seemed like 10c to me. Be careful clipping the 1st bolt (it can be easily clipped from the West side of the formation, but very high off the deck). You will want to rappel off when cleaning (instead of lowering-off) as the chains are runout on easy terrain (which is good etiquette anyway).
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