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Trilogy Buttress
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Frodo Lives 
Lord of the Slings 
Shadow and Flame 
Unnamed 5.8 
Unnamed 5.9 
Unnamed P2 5.7 

Unnamed P2 5.7 

5.7

   

FA: Jim and Christian Knight
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 334 page views

Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Nov 3, 2007


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BETA PHOTO: Trilogy Buttress
Middle Face
1 Lord of the Slings P2 5....



Description 

Either start at the one-bolt belay anchor to the left of a small tree, or from a more-or-less flat spot on some rocks up and to the left from the small tree. Climb up onto a ledge and clip the first bolt, then continue on up on positive edges through four more bolts. After the fifth (last) bolt bear right around the tree.

The most difficult bit is topping out to the right of the tree; the moves aren’t really that hard, but many of the holds you reach for first are crumbly.


Location 

This is the left bolted route on the middle (2nd pitch) face of Trilogy Buttress.


Protection 

5 bolts, 1 bolt anchor.



Photos of Unnamed P2 5.7 Slideshow Add Photo
Lee Jensen belaying Perin Blanchard on <em><a href='/v/utah/wasatch_range/rock_canyon/106054970'>Unnamed P2 5.7</a></em>.

Lee Jensen belaying Perin Blanchard on [[10605...

"Hero Stance"<br />Belaying from the top of <br /><em><a href='/v/utah/wasatch_range/rock_canyon/106054970'>Unnamed P2 5.7</a></em>.

"Hero Stance"
Belaying from the top of
[[1060...


Walt leading the second pitch on <em>Trilogy</em>.

Walt leading the second pitch on Trilogy.


Comments on Unnamed P2 5.7 Add Comment
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By Tristan Higbee
From: Provo, Utah
Sep 8, 2009

Not a fan of this pitch for a few reasons: The first bolt is ridiculously high, making falling before then a very serious no-no. If I had known the first bolt was that high I would have taken some trad gear or something. It just didn't make sense. Also, as I was climbing above the last bolt it wasn't clear to me which side of the bush to top out on (I guess I was dumb enough to not have read Perin's description which said to go right). The bolt is smack in the middle underneath the bush. I went left and found nasty, crumbly choss and scary moves. I was also not impressed with the single ring anchor at the top. Why not put two in??? I backed it up with a crappy slung horn.

By James Garrett
Sep 8, 2009

Exactly what I was thinking....kind of scary.

By Christopher Sorensen
From: Provo, UT
Sep 8, 2009
rating: 5.7

Yeah, you actually have to make a move to get up to that first bolt too, it's not just a scramble. You could definitely fall and hurt yourself. Going left of the bush also presents some danger because the rock their is just awful and will crumble to bits. Then finally, not only is there only one ring anchor, but it took Tristan forever to find it. Kind of strange.