This route is the original Black Rose. It was restored by John Ross in October 2007 using the original four bolt holes. It was chopped many years ago, becoming a casualty of a dispute between two climbers. Note that the line named Black Rose in the Ruckman guide is not the original line.
The route starts on the right side of a small bulge at the base of the slab. After getting to the top of the small bulge you clip the first bolt (14' up) and then climb through the first crux. Thin hands and thinner feet make for some tenuous moves to slightly more positive handholds, and finally your feet are on something slightly resembling a hold. (As a side note, the ripples appearing in the photo form some of the almost-holds; the ripples are a remnant of the ancient beaches from which the Rock Canyon quartzite was formed).
Clip the second bolt and the real business starts. Slopey feet, single finger holds and slopers for the hands lead to clipping the third bolt. After the clip heave a sigh of relief (but not too deeply) as you strive to reach more positive territory after another couple of moves. The hard part is over. Continue on positive edges, clip the fourth bolt and then bear right toward the anchor.
An alternate start is possible in the crack at the bottom left of the slab. The first bolt is a stretch but can be reached and clipped. However, the alternate start doesn't avoid the crux, which is after the second bolt.
Rock Canyon Loremaster Darren Knezek told me that this was originally rated 5.10d by the FA party; he thought he remembered it might even be a little harder.
The base of the slab was changed by quarrying in 2003. The routes on the slab used to start on a boulder. See here for a photo from before the quarrying.
Location
The semi-detached slab at the left of the Black Rose area contains this route and A Rose is a Rose (and every square inch has been climbed on top rope). This route starts at the right side of the slight bulge at the base of the slab and follows the line of four bolts.
The funny thing about the dispute was that neither of the two climbers ever led or redpointed the climb (as far as I know) and neither of them were involved in the FA or knew the first ascentionists. The route was FA'd in the late 1970's or early 1980's, (I'll have to check my old guidebook.) and the fellows involved in the chopping were around 1995.
I am told that the route changed exact locations as well. When I did this, I climbed way over on the left arete (but stil the slab). But now the bolts go almost right up the middle. I asked around and I'm told that the current route is where the route was originally done. What did I get on?
Black Rose
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