BETA PHOTO: Unknown 5.8 route with approximate bolt and anchor...
Description
The crux is definitely the chimney at the beginning. It's hard to find a hold, but they are there. After that it is pretty easy with a little stemming depending on your style and some micro-edging if you want to challenge yourself a bit.
Location
This route is the chimney right next to the roof that faces west on the main face. See the picture for approximate bolt and anchor positions as well as the route itself.
Protection
Six bolts to 2 new hanger and ring anchors at the top. The first bolt is pretty scary as you will fall a lot if you're not steady on your feet and stay into the wall. The second is a bit crazy as well, as the wall pushes you away and there are few handholds in the chimney. From there the rest are pretty straightforward.
Please remember to rap down or use a bail-biner as the anchors are new!
I thought this climb was really fun. I agree the crux is probably getting to the second bolt, it's a bit of a toughie. I actually thought in some ways this climb was harder to follow than to lead for some reason. It gets kind of chossy when you get past the big crack with a few plants, and my climbing partner actually got stung by one of the many hornets buzzing around there, but it was a really fun climb. I think it's harder than just a 5.8(5.8+ or 5.9 I thought) but maybe it's just because I'm not very good. Would not be a good climb to start leading on, as that first bolt is a little nerve wracking.
P.A.'s Mother
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