Another steep route with a difficult start. The crux may be getting to the first bolt. Thin holds and side pulls with little to no feet start this route. First three bolts are the technical crux. After third bolt you get a rest and it eases up a bit and you get some great jugs. Last part of the climb goes steep into the left side of the big flake at the top.
This route is a little stiffer than the .11a just to the right. It felt more sustained and the start is definitely harder. Still a fun route with a lot of good climbing on it.
This route doesn't see a lot of traffic so there is still some loose stuff on it that will most likely come off.
Location
First route from the left on the western half of the Hidden. #5 on the topo photo.
Protection
8 bolts + chains. Shares chains with route to the right (Flakenstein).
Equipped by DK; he let me nab the first lead of this baby a few years ago, but I had to clean the darn thing first. Climb to the right side of the bolts on the whole lower slab. This is way easier than trying to follow the bolts themselves. Originally, this was .10b, but a few holds crumbled at the start hence the bump up in grade. The upper party is good clean fun on big jugs. Enjoy!
By Bad Sock Puppet From: With the climbing Gods Aug 26, 2008 rating: 5.11a/b
Crux is definitely at the beginning of the climb. If you're not comfortable with harder stuff than bring a stick-clip. Start is harder than an 11a. Lots of dirty holds and crumbly stuff. At the top there is a big flake (500+ lbs) that is just waiting to pop off, so be careful. Distance between the last bolt and the chains for how exposed and crappy the route is, is really sketchy. If I were Hidden Wall I would disown this route!
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