A steep route with a thin, difficult start, jugs and crimps in the middle, and a thin finish to the right side of a large, obvious flake just below the anchors.
The crux is low; getting to the first bolt is thin and balancy with tenuous crimps and insecure slopers. The second clip is difficult and awkward from a sidepull (my partner muttered imprecations and issued impolite speculation about the (then) unknown bolter while making the clip).
The middle of the route is a brief, welcome respite, and then comes an exciting, overhanging finish past the flake.
The route curves to the left and the shared anchors are above the left side of the flake. This causes the rope to drag across a sharp edge of the flake while lowering; unclip the rope from the last bolt while lowering. Also, the curvature of the route makes cleaning while lowering difficult.
Location
The second-from-left of four bolted routes on the section of the Hidden Wall that is closest to the trail. Shares anchors with the route to the left of the flake (Tales from the Gripped).
Maybe I did something wrong but I found the first clip fairly grim. You're not going to die or anything but, still, as a 5.10 I was pretty focused and tried a few different stances before making this. I liked the rest of the route. Very cool climbing on excellent textured limestone. A little un-nerving at times with iffy-ish holds. Someday, with enough traffic, could be classic.
I feel I need to comment on high first bolts in general, as the topic comes up quite often. In AF and Rock Canyon, many routes were designed with the intention of stick clipping the first bolt. This keeps the thievery of the first few bolt hangers down. Feel free to count stick clipping the first bolt as a legitimate send on utah county sport routes.
Getting to the first and then second bolt is really difficult and extremely bouldery, but fun. Also, don't swing into the tree on the left, and if you are climbing this on TR, leave some draws in or prepare for major swingage.
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