Nice, continuous face climbing with a really fun crux section. Feels more sustained than the Aid Crack. Two, maybe three stars in there.
Location
Left side of the Green Monster face. Starts at the very bottom of the formation in a nice flake/crack. Then follow the thin seam on the face.
Protection
Thin gear, two pins and a bolt. Nuts, doubles in TCU's up to #3 camalot is possible. You don't really need the wide gear but there are one or two places for it if you don't have very many small pieces. Brass is not mandatory but placements can be found if you're into it.
Great route. What do people think about pulling the 2nd pin and replacing it with a bolt and hanger? This pin is old, sharp and sticks out 2 inches. I am of the opinion that a new bolt would not detract from the experience of the lead but rather give new life to an old classic.
Your wish is granted Clay. FA was Jeff Pedersen in the mid 1980's. If you want to ask him about replacing the pins, Durrant, you can get reach him at his new gym, Momentum in SLC.
Thanks Darren! I didn't know he climbed anything less than .12. This is a fun line. I remember living in provo in the 90's and climbing here watching Dallen Ward hike this thing and thinking, "one day I'm going to get that climb..."
If you lead this...you will have one of the best experiences possible on a short trad line. The fixed gear is a blessing just when you are thinking "Hey, it would be nice if...oh...hey...there's a pin." It is possible to squeeze in some extra gear here and there but sometimes it can be a tough decision (fingers or nut?). Anyway...get on this and learn how rad it feels to commit!
Green Monster Slab
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