BETA PHOTO: George from the Northeast 1 Crushed Velvet 5.7 2 [...
Description
Pitches two and three of a three-pitch bolted route combined. After the third bolt there are two choices: go right for a 5.8 variation or stay straight (the left bolt) for this route.
Fairly easy climbing through the first part, a short vertical section, then easy climbing to a ledge topped by a headwall. Climb straight up through the remaining three bolts on the headwall for a middle-ish 10 section, or decide discretion is the better part of valor and stay right on jugs at the arete for a 7- or 8-ish pusillanimous (discreet - I mean discreet) experience (you can still clip the bolts). Lower or rap to the belay, or walk off the top.
This has afternoon shade and was quite comfortable on a 90 degree late afternoon.
Location
Get to George’s lowest, northeast belay (two hanger-and-ring anchors) via George Direct, the first pitch of Lounge Lizards, or by scrambling up some dicey terrain to the east. Follow the bolts up the “broken staircase”.
Protection
8 bolts to hanger-and-ring anchors (or 5 bolts and 3 bolts if split into two pitches). Hanger-and-ring anchors at the belay, and also at a belay/rap anchor on the ledge before the headwall.
By Perin Blanchard Administrator From: Orem, UT Jun 18, 2007
I was hesitant about adding this since it isn't the full 3 pitches (but primarily because it means I have to confess I once chickened out on the first pitch and haven't yet tried it again).
Anyway, since you can get to the start of the second pitch without climbing the .10c first pitch I decided to go ahead and add it.
I wussed out on the last bit as well (stayed right on the nominal third pitch); I'll go do it again one of these days when all the body parts are fully functional and then update the description.
George
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