Balancy, steep climbing on small edges with some sidepulls, pinches and a finger jam or two. The holds are there but some require a bit of hunting to find.
The climbing is a fairly continuous level of difficulty with a small roof between the first and second bolts and the bit between the last bolt and the anchors being just a bit harder.
There is an 18-inch wide ledge from which you can belay and start the route. If you do so, then the route is about 50 feet in length. If you start and belay from the wider, more comfortable, level area below the route then the length is about 65 feet.
Location
This is the bolted route immediately right of Regular Route, the obvious crack up the right face on the west side of P.A.'s Mother. Alternatively, it is the second-from-the-right bolted route on that face.
Fun route. The crux for me was low down, I think between the first and second bolts. The crimpers out left there just aren't quite as good as they look. After that it's pretty cruiser climbing.
Definitely focus on the feet. Little footholds, side-pull crimpers, all the way up. If you can get the technique, it isn't too hard. Fun route, though.
By Jason Madsen From: Orem, Ut. Sep 13, 2009 rating: 5.10a
hardest part is clipping the 3rd bolt it's really weird
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