A bouldery start, followed by easier climbing above.
The crux is down low, getting to and clipping the 3rd bolt. The second clip is pretty awkward as well. There is also a bulge after the penultimate bolt that could be difficult.
The rock is quite sharp and leaves tiny, bloody holes if you aren't paying attention.
Protection
9 bolts to chains. The second bolt really needs a long-ish draw or the biner gate will open on the rock. There was one other bolt where I wasn't happy with the lie of the biner, but I don't remember which one.
Location
This is the fourth-from-the-left route on The Jobsite, at the far left of the area.
By Perin Blanchard Administrator From: Orem, UT Apr 16, 2007
"...could be difficult", but I'm not sure because I went slightly left rather than straight over the bulge.
I also tried the start several times and took 4 or 5 small falls onto the second bolt. Finally I decided I was wasting my belayer's time and used the "French" method to clip the third bolt. However, I think the start is probably 5.10.
Anyway, I climbed it in shameful fashion so take my 5.10a rating with a large grain of salt. Ask at MountainWorks in Provo if you must know.
By Perin Blanchard Administrator From: Orem, UT Apr 17, 2008
I finally got back and redpointed this yesterday. The start is definitely mid-5.10 (I changed my rating from 5.10a to 5.10b).
This is my favorite route over here. The start really didn't seem too bad this time around. Felt like .10a. Just depends on which holds you grab, I guess.
Yeah, I thought the first move alone moves this higher on my list. The rest of the climb is pretty easy but fun, but the move up to the second bolt is sweet.
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