Apparently the Ruckmans made up the name Tip-a-Canoe for their guidebook. It was either named something else or not named previously.
Anyway, it was a dirty, loose, and potentially dangerous route (dangerous primarily to the belayer). However, it has since been cleaned of most larger, loose items, and is now a pretty fun climb.
Start to the right of the bolted routes on the right-side slab in the obvious corner crack. Follow the crack around a large flake and then into a corner where the crack dries up. There is still a good cam placement, and also a large horn that could be slung. Arrive at a narrow ledge and follow one of two options:
One: Stay in the corner, climb around a large flake and arrive at the ending section where the corner crack is now an offwidth. There is protection to be had in small cracks on the face so large pieces are not necessary. Bear left at the top and arrive at the belay location.
Two: Traverse left a bit and follow a broken crack system up to the belay location.
Build an anchor (a triple-length sling is very useful) and belay the second up.
Location
Scramble up loose stuff to the right side of Black Rose. There are two bolted routes on the right slab; Tip-a-Canoe is to the right of these.
Walk off north (or more accurately, down-climb some 4th class terrain to the north).
Protection
There is bomber pro until about half-way (medium nuts, small cams; then the flake cracks temporarily dry up leaving a good, medium cam placement and a horn for a marginal sling.
After the ledge good pro again abounds in the corner crack.
Save gear for an anchor at the top. I used a small nut, a #3 Camalot, and a triple-length sling around a very large horn.
By Perin Blanchard Administrator From: Orem, UT Apr 20, 2008
This route has been extensively cleaned since I first climbed it. The above description now reflects climbing the corner in its cleaned state. My original description is below. I haven't yet climbed the variation since it was cleaned so I don't know how the pro is, although it looks pretty good (you'll probably want something like a #4 C4).
Old Description
Loose. Dirty. Marginal pro. What's not to like?
Tip-a-Canoe climbs the corner on the right end of the Black Rose area. The route is mostly hand-sized cracks under large flakes and blocks. The variant we climbed leaves the corner about two-thirds up and follows a broken crack system to the top.
The route is mostly 5.6 or so; near the top in the broken cracks it gets a little harder and scarier (looser).
The route was very dirty; it is likely that it hadn't been climbed in a long time. There is also a fair amount of loose stuff (somewhat less now than before). Still, this was a reasonably fun route.
Old Protection
There is bomber pro until about half-way (medium nuts, small cams; then the flake cracks temporarily dry up leaving some marginal small nut placements you really wouldn't want to fall on. The pro in the broken crack system is kinda scary. Cams (#1 and #2 C4 Camalots) fit well but it is questionable whether or not they would hold much of a fall (there is a bomber #1 Camalot placement near the top). Take a nut tool and you'll be able to dig out some better placements near the middle.
Hats off to Perin for doing a ton of work cleaning up this climb. It is now a really fun route, with good gear, an easy approach, and nice moves. Hand cracks, finger cracks, face moves, layback, even an optional offwidth if you would like.
Walk off to the North by down climbing some easy 4th class.
Fun! Thanks for all the cleaning, Perin. Lee and I climbed this route this morning and we went all the way to the top of the cliff, using up most of my 60m rope in the process. The climbing wasn't all that special near the top but it makes for a more interesting approach to Ed and Terry.
Great route, protects super well the whole way up. I wouldn't recommend the variation to the right though, I'd stick to the obvious line ~ going up the left, main crack. The large boulder precariously wedged with two small chockstones holding it in place was a source of concern but is easily avoided if you stay to the left. Down climbing the 4th class to the north was easier than it first appeared and am looking forward to returning to this route.
Gotta disagree that this route protects that well the entire way. A reasonable leader can find gear to trust, but it's not always easy--I wouldn't recommend it for a newer leader, despite the grade. The route is relatively clean now (thanks to those above) but the crack is still dirty. I wouldn't have wanted to fall on at least 1 or 2 of the pieces I placed. The gear on this route felt more like an alpine route than anything I've climbed in Rock Canyon or LCC.
Still fun though. Lots of different kinds of moves....a nice line too.
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