BETA PHOTO: South Face of P.A.'s Mother 12 Coed Crack 5.6 1...
Description
Coed Crack starts with about 6 or 7 feet of easy, not-quite vertical climbing, then easy, low-angled climbing following a shallow, flaring, offwidth crack until the face goes vertical about 10 feet before the end of the climb. The climbing is essentially all face holds, although I suppose if you really wanted to you could get in an offwidth move or two near the top.
Location
Coed Crack is on a south face a few hundred feet past the gate on the north side of the canyon, across the creek and after a short, easy scramble through scrub oak to the base. Descent is via rappel or walk off around to the Northeast.
Protection
Mostly wide stuff. I used 2 #1 Camalot C4s near the bottom, a #5 C4 near the middle, slung a horn, and used a #6 C4 at the start of the vertical section. The vertical section is bigger than a #6. There is a two-chain anchor on top on the left side.
P.A.'s Mother
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