Easy climbing until the roof. Great slab climb down low and then the crack up top. Small fingers are a plus. The line starts out the same as Ridge, then move to the right over the roof. From there follow the small crack to the chains.
The only "good" hold immediately above the overhang includes a loose rock that happens to be wedged in just right; it spooked me pretty bad when I first reached for it. It's actually in _really_ good; we've tried to remove it and won't come out.
There's nothing else to get you over the lip except a crack that will allow a single finger, and a slick sloper up high. If you can't get it (and don't want to weight the rope), you can go along the left edge of the arete a few feet, then come back around. That feels like it makes the climb about an .8 or .9, however.
I love this route! It's a trad climb but climbs like a sport climb. What I mean by that is that it protects with gear but you don't really need to do a whole lot of jamming or anything. The gear is solid, the holds thin, and the moves fun.
Red Slab
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