The first pitch starts the closest set of bolts to the creek. It traversed to the right following a beautiful line in the rock.
The 2nd pitch is the crux. It starts out at 5.6 for about 15 feet to a nice ledge. To the right of the next bolt there's a nice pocket just out of reach. Once you find it the rest is straight forward.
Be ready for hanging belay points. The bolts on the last pitch are spaced far apart. you can use four-foot slings to wrap some chicken heads. Be careful not to get your rope stuck when you pull it off the 3rd pitch.
Location
200 feet past the second bridge, across the creek from the trail.
The REAL first pitch is one of the most unique pitches anywhere! The second is a bit crumbly but stay on the left arete/prow and you will find the best rock. There is an option that stays more in the center of the wall, but the difficulty is stepped up some. The last pitch is a slab but still exciting with the neat plate features. A RC must do!
By John Ross From: Spanish Fork, UT May 4, 2009 rating: 5.11b
Finally got the RP despite a hold breaking off mid climb. More holds have likely broken off over the years. Felt 5.11b fer sure. Getting to the pocket was key, as was finding the crimpers and small feet through the crux.
Walking off the top saves time and avoids the hassles of getting your rope stuck on all of the P3 chicken heads.
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