Red Red Whine is the left-most bolted route on the Red Slab. The enjoyable crux is turning the small roof and is what makes the climb. The crux requires balance (or long arms and legs). The rest of the route is slab climbing on positive edges.
Note that this route isn't Impossible Dream (5.10d), which isn't bolted and is a few feet left of Red Red Whine. I think the confusion arises because the Ruckman guide topo for the Red Slab shows Impossible Dream and the topo location for Impossible Dream looks just like Red Red Whine.
Protection
7 bolts to hanger-and-ring anchors. Not a great top rope because of sharp edges, but doable. However, the anchor probably isn't safely accessible from the top without a belay.
I agree with Ryan. And the crux on this is harder than the one on "A Rose is a Rose".
What's cool about the overhang is that it's harder if you go up on the right of the overhang-bolt than if you climb across from the left. However, approaching the overhang is easier on the right of the bolts.
I like the fact that this route continues the long standing tradition of 5.8 sandbags in rock canyon.
By criscokid From: PG, Utah May 21, 2008 rating: 5.8
Hey, it's about as hard as Chicago Overhang. I agree with C. Knight; the rating is fine at 5.8 the sequence is just hard to hit exactly right. But the holds to make it 5.8 are all there...
Red Slab
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